Collecting and Shooting the SKS Rifle

I have been getting a lot of email requests for an article on after-market stocks for the SKS. I looked around and decided that the stocks offered by Advanced Technology, Inc. (ATI), looked the most promising. They offer three glass-filled nylon, SKS replacement stocks - starting with the Monte Carlo (classic Monte Carlo style. Great for hunting or sport shooting), the Ultralight (basically a folding stock that does not fold?), and the Fiberforce (founded on the famous Dragunov design). I decided to go with the bad-assed, black-ops, looking stock - the Fiberforce.

It just kind of appealed to me and I had an SKS that was crying out for a new stock. No matter what I did, it still looked bad. I really had nothing to lose.

"Founded on the Famous Dragunov design. Simple "drop-in" installation. No gunsmithing or modification! Accuracy and comfort are both improved by the thumbhole stock, ventilated forearm, and adjustable cheek rest. No modification necessary for left handed shooters. Made in USA of black, glass-filled nylon. Mfg Lifetime Warranty."

Let me start off by saying that the stock is very tough and durable. It retails for around $59 and is available from many suppliers - Tapco, Sportsman's Guide, and even Cabelas carry all three models. I also ordered the butt pad which retails for around $9 and can be purchased from the same suppliers. Advanced Technology offers easy to follow instructions that come with the stock or you can access them on-line, on their website.

I made my usual mistake and did not follow the instructions and had to take a couple steps back before being able to complete the final assembly.

What I find really funny about me not reading or following instructions is that I spend all this time working on Surplusrifle.com, which is basically one big instructional manual! Eh, go figure! So, don't make my same blunder and read the instructions before you try to do this task.

You have to remove the trigger assembly, magazine, and gas assembly from the rifle. What I did not discover until I was almost finished was you don't have to remove the bolt, bolt carrier, or receiver cover. But again, this was my own fault.

Note: The most difficult part of this project is not any fault of ATI.

I once was told by a friend of mine, named Paul, that removing the handguard on an SKS from the gas assembly is a very difficult endeavor and takes two adults to accomplish.

Not that I didn't believe him......

But, I NEVER could have imagined how damned hard it could be to remove the little dickens. I have punched hundreds of pins out. Hell, I have never found an SKS bolt pin that I can't knock out (I am not bragging or expecting you to be impressed, just stating a fact to draw comparison).

Figure 8 is a scan from the manual that comes with the stock.

It shows the general location of the pin and describes accurately how to remove it. You really should familiarize yourself with the enemy before entering combat.

My daughter said she heard colorful expletives coming out of my mouth, like she has never heard from me before. She said, it was like something right out of the Exorcist (Exorcist I, you know, the scary one). I know I shouldn't cuss in front of my 18 year old daughter, but when you try this task for yourself you will be considerably more lenient with my transgressions.

I had the right tools, the right frame of mind (to start with), so I pounded, and I pounded, and I pounded, and I pounded, and I pounded. I could go on for another half an hour - because this is about how long it took me to knock the little bugger out.

1) Putting the gas assembly in a vise, didn't work.

2) I tried placing it on a hard surface, while holding it down with my other hand, while pounding the hell out of it.

3) I ended up having my daughter hold the part down with all of her strength and weight and then and only then, I was able to knock it free.

Once you get it out, you remove the retaining cap and the wooden handguard (as shown in figures 9 and 10). Sliding the new handguard on, is the easiest part of the task.

Knocking the pin back in only takes seconds and it was accomplished in a relatively cuss free environment! The replacement handguard cover is a little loose, but I have seen plenty of SKS Carbines that the wood on the handguard moves around.

A friend asked me today if it would not be better and easier to purchase a gas assembly that already has the black handguard installed on it. This is true, if you have too much play in your handguard after installing the new cover or just cannot remove the pin on the old one, you could purchase a new gas assembly. The model for most SKS Carbines runs for about $29, while the model for the Yugo 59/66 is about $39. Tapco carries both models.

NOTE:

I have been told, by a reader, that the TAPCO replacement gas assembly also requires a new piston that fits the replacement gas assembly. I am checking into this.

I have not purchased either or tried them yet, so I don't know how the fit and finish is.

The butt pad is easy to install and for a slip on, stays on the rifle pretty well.

One thing I can say is installing and locking down the trigger guard is a fairly snug fit. I do recommend pushing from both the top of the rifle as well as the trigger assembly.

It took considerable force to get it to finally lock down. When assembled, the SKS is very snug and does not show any play or movement in the stock at all. I did try the stock on the Chinese, Romanian, and with a Yugo SKS (would require some inletting and modification for the Yugo to fit properly). It fit all three carbines/rifles.

Click on the image below to see a larger version of the image.

The final product is pretty hot looking (as seen in the picture above). I know it is not for everyone. I have not done anything that permanently alters the rifle and it can be returned to original condition easily. Also, I have several other SKS in original condition and this is just a variance on a theme.

I tried sighting the SKS a couple of times with the cheek pad installed and could not get a good sight picture. I am really glad it was removable. After removing it, I was able to get a normal/better SKS sight picture. I really like the feel and control you get with having the pistol grip.

The length of pull is extended by at least 1" and more with the butt pad installed. I would highly recommend getting the butt pad, it definitely adds a higher level of control when placed against your shoulder.

I am looking forward to taking it to the range and seeing if the new stock adds any level of accuracy.

jlm ;)

Range Report

I took the ATI stocked SKS to the range and gave it a try. From a bench rest, I did not notice much difference in handling or performance. I installed a 10 round John Masen magazine (as shown in figure 20) and also used the original SKS magazine (as shown in figure 19). Both magazines performed well.

I decided to try off-handed shooting at 50 yards. My theory was that I would see a higher accuracy level because of the increased stability from using the longer stock and hand grip.

Figure 21 shows that I was not disappointed. I do not usually shoot very well when standing. Like most, I perform better when resting the rifle or carbine against some sort of rest. I was not surprised at the stability that the stock gave me when standing. With the lower recoil of the SKS (to begin with) and the longer length of pull the ATI Fiberforce stock gave me while shooting made for a very comfortable hold and shoot.

As much as I like to have my rifles or carbines in original condition, I think I am going to leave this stock on this SKS.

Note of Caution

The ATI Fiberforce Stock has a raised area behind the receiver cover. To remove the cover or properly clean the carbine, you will need to remove the carbine from the stock first.

Reader Submitted Suggestion

I installed a Fiberforce Dragunov-style stock on my SKS sometime back and thought I'd pass along my 2 cents. The area behind the receiver is, apparently, intended to mimic the profile of an AK. Looks good, but you can't remove the receiver cover without removing the stock. Bummer. I modified my stock with a hack-saw, file, screw driver, sand paper and emory cloth to remedy this situation. It's not for the faint of heart, and takes a couple of hours, but here's how:

Separate the rifle from the stock. Remove the receiver cover, bolt et al. Reassemble the rifle and stock. Note the area where the back of the receiver meets the stock. Take a pencil and trace the receiver's contour into the receiver cavity inside the stock. Again, separate the rifle and stock. Now, note where the line traced inside the receiver cavity meets the sides of the stock. Extend the line horizontally back along the each side of the stock as far as the stock goes.

Now comes the good part. Clamp the stock in a vice, taking care to insulate the stock from the vice jaws. With a hacksaw, carefully cut along the lines on each side, meeting inside the receiver cavity and across the rear of the stock. Now look again inside the receiver cavity at the original contour you traced. There will be two vertical lines. Extend these lines straight back across the top of the newly exposed surface of the stock. With the hack saw, cut along these two lines to the depth of the horizontal lines inside the receiver cavity. Be careful here, don't cut too deep. Lastly, cut a series of slots between and parallel to these last two cuts, leaving a series of thin tabs sticking up. These tabs can easily be broken out with a screw driver.

Reassemble the rifle and stock. Slide on the receiver cover, noting any interference. Again, separate the rifle and stock. With a file, smooth out any areas where there is interference. With sand paper, emory cloth etc., finish to suit.

Prior to starting this modification, I was very concerned that I might expose a void inside the stock. The manufacturer assured me this shouldn't happen, so I screwed up my courage and gave it a shot. No voids, and the material turns out to be fairly easy to work with.

You can also drill a small hole in the forend to insert the cleaning rod, if you like. Do it right and the rod won't just slide out like it does with the original stock. (It's held in by the bayonet. No bayonet and it slides right out.)

The cheek rest can hold the cleaning kit, but it rattles. Stuff a piece of rag into one end of the rest and the rattle will stop. Also, the cheek rest can be clamped to the underside of the stock, so you can still have it with you when not in use.

I found the recoil pad tended to grab my clothing as I shouldered the rifle, throwing me off. Since the recoil is fairly light anyway, I don't use it.

Todd
Suwanee, Ga.