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| Article written by: Mark Trope | |||||||||
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Part I Discussion |
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In the previous article of this series, we tested a Lee Precision Inc. www.leeprecision.com 6-cavity bullet mold, # 90310, and Lee Production Pot IV bottom-draw, lead melting furnace. This most excellent mold and lead melting furnace left us with a large pile of nice, shiny, well filled out bullets in very short order. However, those bullets were by no means ready to be loaded. Fellow gun writer Dean Grennell was fond of telling the story of how when he started casting bullets the first batch he produced looked very good. So good in fact, that he decided to load up, and shoot some without benefit of lubrication or sizing. He figured shooting “just a few” without lubrication “wouldn’t hurt”. He learned the folly of such action after that ill-advised shooting session by spending a goodly amount of time scrubbing layer, after layer, of stubborn lead fouling from the barrel of his revolver. Myself, always being one to learn from the mistakes of others (OK, most of the time anyway…), acquired a proper lubricator / sizer right from “jump street” as it were. Let’s discuss the reasons for lubing and sizing, and then we will look at a lubricator / sizer, and how to use it. Jacketed bullets leave a coating of gliding metal (jacket material) behind. What about cast bullets? Un-lubricated, under-lubricated, or too soft lead alloy bullets leave a coating of lead behind (Note.1). The reason for this loss of material can be summed up in one word: friction. Excessive friction will cause part of the bullet to actually solder itself onto the interior of the barrel. When the next bullet passes over that spot; part of that next bullet will adhere to the lead already in the barrel. And so it goes, leading will continue to migrate further & further toward the muzzle of the barrel. Since prevention is always easier then a cure, let’s not ever let leading get started. That means we need to consider some things, answer a few questions, and get some data so we can make intelligent decisions. ► What size (internal diameter) is the barrel? When loading for a handgun, the rule of thumb is to size cast bullets either right at, or no more then .0001 over bore diameter (Note.2). I’ve done it both ways, and am more comfortable with the bullet .0001 over bore diameter. Why? Good question thought you’d never ask! The less sizing done to a bullet the better, sizing always displaces metal to some degree. The less metal is displaced, the closer the bullet to the condition it was in as it came from the mold, and that my friends, is the most desirable condition for a bullet. So, how do we determine the correct diameter? This article by my friend Ted and myself outlines the process for slugging a barrel: http://www.surplusrifle.com/reloading/slug/index.asp . ► What velocity will the bullet travel at? (Alloy) With one exception, (which we will cover shortly) low velocity loads will not require the hardness or strength in a cast bullet that high velocity loads require. Straight wheel weight alloy is fine for low and medium velocity cast bullets. When velocities approach the high end, then stronger and harder bullets are required. Wheel weight alloy can still be used, however, it will require alloy enrichment or heat-treating to bring it up to the strength and hardness requirements of high velocity loads.
Alloy enrichment means blending in a portion of linotype metal. Linotype is expensive, and hard to come by in these days of photo offset printing (Note.3). Heat-treating by the simple quenching method makes cast bullets harder and stronger. Quenching is quick, and involves no additional cost. We have outlined this procedure in article: http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/alloyhardness/index.asp.
What about that one exception we discussed? Most handgun barrels have fairly deep rifiling. However, barrels for the .45 ACP cartridge have shallow rifiling. Shallow rifiling barrels always require a hard bullet, no ifs, ands, or buts. The reason for this is shallow rifiling needs a hard bullet to initially grip, and properly rotate with the twist in a shallow rifiling barrel. The S&W 1917 has shallow rifiling, therefore all bullets were heat treated by the water quench method. ► What velocity range will the bullet travel at? (Lube) As we said, all lead bullets require lubrication. What kind, and how much lubrication depend on the velocity of the bullets. Some loads (starter loads) listed don’t have very stringent lubrication requirements. Others, (medium and high velocity) require all the lubrication they can get.
Have you ever noticed how most manuals show loads for swaged lead bullets, however, the loads are always starting loads only? The weights of those swaged lead bullets may be identical or quite close to cast or jacketed bullets that the manual also lists. The loads and velocities listed for hard-cast and jacketed bullets of similar weight are higher then for the swaged lead bullets. Why the difference?
Factory swaged lead bullets are very soft. Dipping them in an evaporative solution lubes such bullets. After dipping, the carrier evaporates, and leaves a very thin coating of some type of dry lube on the bullets. Such soft bullets and thin lube coats can only withstand low velocities before the lube fails; the soft bullets deform, and the barrel leads badly. Medium and high velocity loads require better lube (Note.4). Decades ago, the NRA developed a lube that’s 50 % beeswax, and 50% Alox 2138F. This famous mixture is known as “50/50 bullet lube”, or “NRA formula” lube. In the intervening years, various other lubes have come & gone, some making wondrous claims. However, 50/50 lube will handle virtually any cast bullet requirements. I’ve gotten tight groups with 50/50 lube, and not had leading issues. Why change? |
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GAR 50/50 bullet lube |
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All the reloading concerns market 50/50 lube; any one of them will work. Personally, I get my 50/50 lube from GAR. I can recommend their products without reservation. Currently they charge $12.00 for 6 sticks or $36.00 for 24 sticks. A sample stick is $2.50 (specify hollow or solid stick). Why pay more? GAR 590 Mcbride Ave. West Patterson, NJ 07424
(973)-754-1114 (973)-742-2897
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Part II Data & Decisions |
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It’s time to get our data, and make some decisions ■ What size (internal diameter) is my barrel? I found the barrel of my S&W 1917 measured .451. As stated, I prefer the bullet .0001 over bore diameter. That made it a simple matter to order a sizing chamber sized .452. ■ What velocity range will my bullet travel at? (Powder selection) |
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Herco (Alliant Powder Co.) |
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I decided not to strain a fine old gun like my 1917. Only medium loads would be utilized. Frankly, powder selection can be a trying experience! The manuals have a bewildering selection of powders. While all the powders in the manual are safe, I prefer Alliant Herco http://www.alliantpowder.com/. I loaded grains 5.4 of Herco under the Lee cast bullet. Both .45ACP, and .45 Auto Rim brass were loaded. Alliant
Powder
PO Box 6
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Part III Tools & Loading |
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While there are other methods to size and lube cast bullets, the most convenient and fastest by far is with a lubricator / sizer. A lubricator / sizer has the ability to simultaneously size and lubricate cast bullets. The tool has a recess (usually in the back) to insert a stick of bullet lube. Turning a handle above the recess increases pressure on the lube so it fills the bullet lube groove(s) as the bullet is inserted into the sizing chamber. Sizing chambers are usually in the front bottom of the tool. They are exchangeable for size, and usually retained by a large packing nut (Note.5). A top punch, fitted for the nose of the bullet, pushes the bullet into the sizing chamber. The top punch is usually located in the tool ram at top front of the tool. A small Allen screw usually retains the top punch. |
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RCBS Lube-A-Matic-2 Bullet Lubricator / Sizer(Above picture is the current model, mine is the older Lube-A-Matic) |
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Generally available lubricator / sizers are manufactured by Saeco, Lyman RCBS. I was stationed in Germany at the time I got my lubricator / sizer. Since the only lubricator / sizer the Rod & Gun club had on the shelf at the time was an RCBS, that’s what I got. I would have been happy with any one of the 3 brands. I got my RCBS lubricator / sizer right about the time the Woolly Mammoth went on the endangered species list, yet, after all these years, it still works perfectly. Let’s run through the procedure for setting up a new lubricator / sizer. |
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A15/16 wrench removes the packing nut(There is a sizing chamber in the tool. A new tool won’t have a sizing chamber) |
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Packing nut |
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Bolt it securely to the bench and do any assembly per the manufacturers instructions, however, do not install the sizing chamber yet. Remove the packing nut and set it to the side. Insert a stick of lubricant and turn the pressure handle until you can see the lube start to fill the bottom of the recess where the sizing chamber fits. |
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New bullet sizing chamber(Lyman brand, also fits RCBS tool) |
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Size is stamped on bullet sizing chamber |
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This blue / green gunk is shipping preservative, it must be removed |
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A new sizing chamber is coated with a shipping preservative when you get it. The shipping preservative is not bullet lube, and must be removed. If one doesn’t remove the shipping preservative prior to use, your first 10 or 15 bullets that are lubed will have a very rough time going through the tool. Believe me, I know! Let’s do it the right way. |
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Spray disk brake cleaner removes shipping preservative fast |
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Use spray disk brake cleaner to flush all the shipping preservative from the new sizing chamber. Remove and spray the center rod too. |
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Bullet lube will be used to prep new sizing chamber |
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Bullet lube smeared thru holes in new sizing chamber(Sizing rod is removed) |
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All 8 lube holes have lube oozing thru |
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Lube oozing into sizing chamber |
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Make sure center rod is installed the right way |
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Center rod pushes out excess lube |
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Once the sizing chamber & rod are clean and dry, it’s time to pre-lube them. Take some bullet lube and smear it along the outside of the sizing chamber until it oozes thru the lube holes. Next, take the center rod and push it back into the sizing chamber, make sure it goes back in the way it came out. The center rod will push out the excess lube. |
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Smear the excess lube on the outside of the sizing chamber |
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Sizing chamber pushed into packing nut |
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Start the packing nut by hand, get it in straight |
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Use a 15/16 wrench to just snug the packing nut |
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Insert the sizing chamber into the packing nut and thread the packing nut into the body of the lubricator / sizer. Make sure you start the packing nut straight. Tighten the packing nut until it’s just snug. Don’t try to torque down on it! |
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Lyman top punch also fits RCBS tool(Lee doesn’t make top punches for their bullet molds) (I selected a top punch for a similar design Lyman bullet) |
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Recess in top punch fits over nose of bullet |
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| Installing top punch | |||||||||
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Lightly snug Allen screw to retain top punch |
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Insert the top punch into the bottom of the ram. A small Allen screw secures the top punch in place. Turn the Allen wrench until it’s just barely snug. Some advanced reloaders just put a good dab of bullet lube on the top punch-retaining shaft and let the lube hold it in place instead of tightening the Allen screw. Now turn the lube pressure handle until you feel pressure. A bit of air might bleed out. Put one of your new castings on top of the sizing chamber and slowly push down on the handle. The top punch will push the bullet into the sizing chamber. |
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Ready to go! |
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Center bullet on top of sizing chamber… |
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When the bullet lube groove lines up with the lube hole in the side of the sizing chamber, lube will flow into the bullets lube groove(s). Since the sizing chambers are internally tapered, the bullet will be gently squeezed to size. |
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Pull handle and top punch starts to push bullet into sizing chamber… |
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Bullet in sizing chamber, and getting lubed… |
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Handle raised, bullet coming up… |
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Bullet is sized and lubed |
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Ready to load! |
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Since each cast bullet design is different, you will have to see how far into the sizing chamber a particular bullet needs to be pressed, and exactly how much pressure is needed to lube the bullet, but not have excess lube on it. With a bit of practice you have the technique down, and be correctly lubing & sizing cast bullets as fast as you can pick them up and press the handle. |
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A bullet lubricator / sizer will quickly turn this into… |
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This! |
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Make sure the case neck has sufficient flare for seating cast bullets |
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Seated cast bullet in .45 Auto Rim case |
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Ready for the range |
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Loading procedures for cast bullets in handguns is identical to loading for jacketed bullets, except that you have to insure the case mouth is flared enough so no lead is scraped from the bullet as it is seated. The flaring adjustment you have for jacketed bullets may, or may not be sufficient for cast. Again, with a bit of experience you will find the correct adjustment. I loaded all ammo on my Lee Classic Turret Press. Please read my review of this fine tool http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006/leeturretpress/index.asp. |
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Part IV Range Time |
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Time for the pay off! All targets were fired standing, off-hand. As I suspected, cast bullets were much more accurate in the old S&W then jacketed bullets were! |
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Smith & Wesson 1917 with original grips |
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Smith & Wesson 1917 with Pachmayr rubber grips(All groups were fired with Pachmayr grips) |
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6 shots, fired standing, off-hand, cast bullets |
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12 shots, fired standing, off-hand, cast bullets |
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12 shots, fired standing, off-hand, cast bullets |
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| 6 shots, fired standing, off-hand, cast bullets | |||||||||
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Best group with jacketed bullets. As the previous 4 targets will attest, this revolver loves properly prepped Lee cast bullets! : - ) |
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| Article written by: Mark Trope |
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