|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
How to remove the grenade launcher
from the M59/66 rifle without damaging it. |
| |
| Article Written
by: O. Milic |
|
|
|
Adobe PDF
Downloadable Version of Article |
|
|
|
Prior Article on Same Subject by O. Milic |
|
|
|
NOTE |
|
The launcher
thread is right-hand side (normal). Lefty-loosey,
righty-tighty! |
|
| |
 |
In order to remove the
launcher without damaging it, we obviously must
make some kind of the clamp, not unlike the
barrel clamp. If followed closely, the procedure
described here should leave no scratch and would
not even damage the bluing. We first must make
an
appropriate clamp for this purpose. The total
cost of materials including shipping is about
$25 so you may want to split the cost with your
friend. Before attempting to remove the launcher
using the procedure described here, please read
the previous article on launcher removal.
I have found one item on the web which can
easily be adapted for this purpose.
McMaster-Carr is selling "Heavy-Duty
High-Temperature Vibration Damping Clamps". |
|
Parts needed for launcher removal: clamp,
55/64" drill bit and two scrap pieces of printed
circuit board. |
|
|
The item number in their catalog is 3050T74, the
clamp is for 3/4" outer dia. tube. It costs
around $11. The high-temperature feature is
important as the clamp must withstand the
heating of the launcher, so this clamp has
aluminum liner as opposed to more common
plastic. The outer diameter of the launcher is
22mm, while the hole in the clamp is 3/4". To
enlarge the hole we need, ideally, a 21.9mm
metric drill bit, or to make things easier
55/64" drill bit (Figure 1). The 55/64" silver
and deming drill bit (with 1/2" shank) can be
purchased from Enco, (www.use-enco.com)
for about $8 (part # 301-1055).With both clamp
and drill bit in hand we first insert two
spacers in the clamp, so as to create the
intentional uniform gap, Figure 2. |

Before drilling the clamp, insert PCB pieces so
as to create the gap. Tighten the clamp. |
|

Clamp should be mounted flush
with the launcher muzzle and evenly tightened. |
Make sure that spacers are very close to the hole
edges, as this will produce the clean gap edges
after drilling. I have found that two scrap
pieces of printed circuit board (PCB) are
perfect for this purpose. Tighten the clamp and
enlarge the hole to 55/64" size. You should
definitely use drill-press. The 55/64" drill bit
is large and although you are drilling aluminum,
the torque will be significant. Besides, you
want to assure clean vertical cut, which is
impossible to achieve with the hand drill. Once
the hole is enlarged, loosen the clamp and
remove the spacers. Clamp is now ready. Make
sure you removed the pin used to secure the
launcher (see the previous article on launcher
removal). Install the clamp onto the launcher,
aligning the front of the launcher with the face
of the clamp, Figure 3. |
|

Heat the rear portion of the
launcher evenly. |
Tighten the clamp E-V-E-N-L-Y! It might be good
idea to wipe cosmoline or grease before
installation. Clamp works on the principle of
pressure (i.e. force) and friction, so the
presence of friction between the clamp and
launcher is important. So, no lube should be
present, degrease the launcher before mounting
the clamp. Heat the rear portion of the launcher
for 30 seconds or so, Figure 4, and then apply
the torque to the clamp.
The rest is same as in the case of using pipe
wrench, but in this case, we need large pipe
wrench capable of gripping the clamp itself. You
may want to grip the clamp across the clamp face
(front side) if your wrench does not have deep
jaws.
|
|
|
Rotate counterclockwise, assuming the barrel
pointing toward you, Figure 5.
|
 |
| |
Apply the
torque counterclockwise assuming the barrel is
pointed toward you. |
|
|
After 1/3 of the turn launcher will become loose and can
be removed by hand. Keep in mind that it is HOT! Loosen
the clamp screws and remove launcher. If everything was
done right, absolutely no damage should be visible on
the launcher. The same procedure, but in reverse, can be
used to install the launcher back, to bring the rifle
back into the original configuration. |
|
|
|
Adobe PDF
Downloadable Version of Article |
| |
| Article Written
by: O. Milic |
|