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My Mauser .22 - Venturing Beyond My Comfort Zone

How to remove the grenade launcher from the M59/66 rifle without damaging it.

 
Article Written by: O. Milic
 

Adobe PDF Downloadable Version of Article

 

Prior Article on Same Subject by O. Milic

 

NOTE

The launcher thread is right-hand side (normal). Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty!

 

In order to remove the launcher without damaging it, we obviously must make some kind of the clamp, not unlike the barrel clamp. If followed closely, the procedure described here should leave no scratch and would not even damage the bluing. We first must make an appropriate clamp for this purpose. The total cost of materials including shipping is about $25 so you may want to split the cost with your friend. Before attempting to remove the launcher using the procedure described here, please read the previous article on launcher removal.

I have found one item on the web which can easily be adapted for this purpose. McMaster-Carr is selling "Heavy-Duty High-Temperature Vibration Damping Clamps".

Parts needed for launcher removal: clamp, 55/64" drill bit and two scrap pieces of printed circuit board.

The item number in their catalog is 3050T74, the clamp is for 3/4" outer dia. tube. It costs around $11. The high-temperature feature is important as the clamp must withstand the heating of the launcher, so this clamp has aluminum liner as opposed to more common plastic. The outer diameter of the launcher is 22mm, while the hole in the clamp is 3/4". To enlarge the hole we need, ideally, a 21.9mm metric drill bit, or to make things easier 55/64" drill bit (Figure 1). The 55/64" silver and deming drill bit (with 1/2" shank) can be purchased from Enco, (www.use-enco.com) for about $8 (part # 301-1055).With both clamp and drill bit in hand we first insert two spacers in the clamp, so as to create the intentional uniform gap,  Figure 2.

Before drilling the clamp, insert PCB pieces so as to create the gap. Tighten the clamp.

Clamp should be mounted flush with the launcher muzzle and evenly tightened.

Make sure that spacers are very close to the hole edges, as this will produce the clean gap edges after drilling. I have found that two scrap pieces of printed circuit board (PCB) are perfect for this purpose. Tighten the clamp and enlarge the hole to 55/64" size. You should definitely use drill-press. The 55/64" drill bit is large and although you are drilling aluminum, the torque will be significant. Besides, you want to assure clean vertical cut, which is impossible to achieve with the hand drill. Once the hole is enlarged, loosen the clamp and remove the spacers. Clamp is now ready. Make sure you removed the pin used to secure the launcher (see the previous article on launcher removal). Install the clamp onto the launcher, aligning the front of the launcher with the face of the clamp, Figure 3.

Heat the rear portion of the launcher evenly.

Tighten the clamp E-V-E-N-L-Y! It might be good idea to wipe cosmoline or grease before installation. Clamp works on the principle of pressure (i.e. force) and friction, so the presence of friction between the clamp and launcher is important. So, no lube should be present, degrease the launcher before mounting the clamp. Heat the rear portion of the launcher for 30 seconds or so, Figure 4, and then apply the torque to the clamp.
The rest is same as in the case of using pipe wrench, but in this case, we need large pipe wrench capable of gripping the clamp itself. You may want to grip the clamp across the clamp face (front side) if your wrench does not have deep jaws.
 

Rotate counterclockwise, assuming the barrel pointing toward you, Figure 5.

 
 

Apply the torque counterclockwise assuming the barrel is pointed toward you.

After 1/3 of the turn launcher will become loose and can be removed by hand. Keep in mind that it is HOT! Loosen the clamp screws and remove launcher. If everything was done right, absolutely no damage should be visible on the launcher. The same procedure, but in reverse, can be used to install the launcher back, to bring the rifle back into the original configuration.
 

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Article Written by: O. Milic