If you are even a "somewhat" serious collector and want your rifles to be in original condition, then after extensive reading you will end up developing/learning "similar" or "close-to the same" finishing techniques as were originally used when the rifles were manufactured.

We purchase rifles all the time that have had a part of the stock replaced (like maybe a handguard) over the last 50 to 100 years. Most of the time - you never know. Other times the color or patina of the different stock parts are mismatched. Sometimes this mismatch is bloody obvious. I don't know about you - this bugs the hell out of me and makes me want to correct it.

The difference is the simple result of time, dirt, and oil (in no particular order) or the lack of these elements. The original finish is usually a dark hand rubbed patina that can only be achieved through years and years of use.

Or is it?

I have found that you can closely duplicate the aged patinas that you find on old stocks. Though it does take the correct ingredients and a lot of patience to successfully complete.

Figure 1

You don't spend $600 on a rifle that you plan on sporterizing. You spend $600 on a rifle that has a history that is worth saving.

Figure 2

Here come the analogies:

• It looked like someone sat on their front porch and widdled it with a pocket knife.
• It is kind of like taking a Chevy Chevette's hood and placing it on a Chevy Corvette (Note that I used American cars in the analogy because the '03 is definitely an American icon).

You can easily tell the difference in quality between stock furniture that was developed for WWI era weapons and WWII era weapons. Prior to WWII, manufacturers took more time and care when building weapons. By the time WWII came around rifle stocks were no longer the fine crafted pieces of furniture but products of mass manufacturing.

Figure 3

To correct the matter of the mismatched handguard I planned to:

1. Remove the handguard and strip off the current finish;
2. Sand it to reduce the porous surface and closely match the original stock's smoothness (while being ever-so-careful not to remove dents and dings so it still has aged patina and character);
3. Apply a dark walnut stain until the color is almost, but not quite as dark as the original stock's finish;
4. Hand rub several coats of Boiled Linseed Oil;
5. Hand rub a multitude of coats of beeswax until desired appearance is achieved.

Note: The steps outlined above took about a week and a half to accomplish.

Figure 4

1. Never use it on a laminate stock. It will weaken the stock by dissolving the adhesive between the layers of wood.
2. Never use more than two applications (apply, rinse, and repeat - just like shampoo). Any more than this and you may damage the wood. If you find you need more applications then use a standard furniture stripper instead. Note: Most furniture strippers can be just as caustic irritants to the skin and eyes, say nothing about the surface of the wood. If you doubt this - try using furniture stripper without gloves and see how your skin holds up.
3. Never leave the oven cleaner on the surface of the rifle stock for more than 10 to 15 minutes. Any more than this and you may damage the wood. If you find you need more then use a standard furniture stripper instead.
4. Always wear rubber gloves and eye protection.
5. Always work in a well ventilated work space.
6. Always clean the rifle stock after you are finished. Use a strong detergent like Dawn dishwashing soap and vigorously clean the stock to stop the chemical reaction of the oven cleaner and remove any residue from the surface of the stock. Then rinse with water.

Figure 5

7. Always let the stock dry for at least 24 hours (or longer) before proceeding with sanding.

After reading all of the warnings you may ask - "hey, why is Jamie recommending that I use this stuff?".

The answer is - it is quick and it works really well. I am a somewhat patient man - but I do not have all the time in the world (and not all the patience). I am a workin' man and somewhat lazy to begin with. I have used furniture stripper (and many brands of furniture stripper) on hundreds of pieces of antique furniture and it is messy, takes time, requires many applications, and a lot of scraping to complete the job.

Figure 6

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Figure 9

You can easily apply several coats until the desired darkness is achieved. Kind of like Emeril always says - it is easier to add more salt later - than it is to take it away if you add too much.

Make sure you wear gloves. Follow the stain's instructions for drying - I usually give it a couple days to see what the final tint is going to be. I have found that .30 cleaning patches are great for applying stain and they are disposable after use. Afterwards I always take mine and place them in the bottom of the BBQ pit in case of combustion - you never know.

Figure 10

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• Safety: I don't have to worry about cleaning or disposing of rags (no combustion).
• Quality: When applied by the heat of the hand the Boiled Linseed Oil applies very smoothly and produces a beautiful finish.

Figure 14

Figure 15

There are many different beeswax furniture polishes on the market. I have developed a liking to a blended wax called Howard's Feed N Wax.

Howard's Feed N Wax is a blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil.

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Figure 17

Now the rifle is perfect and I will not touch anything else!

jlm;)

WARNING - Failure to follow this procedure may result in accidental discharge, firearm damage and serious bodily injury. Always be certain that your firearm is functioning properly before use.

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