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Click on
any of the small "Figure" images below to see a larger version of
the image.
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I purchased the Romanian M-44 Nagant Carbine, used
in this article, for around $50 at a local sporting goods
store. The bore and finish were in excellent shape, but the stock
really left something to be desired. The rifle was probably carried
quite a bit, but was not fired very much at all. |
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It shoots great and is fairly accurate for a very
short barreled rifle. I decided to completely disassemble my little
rifle and refinish the stock. |
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As shown in figures 1 through 3, the
M-44 had pits, dings, and oil stains all over the wood stock.
*Note: Make sure you disassemble your rifle, removing all metal
from the wood before proceeding with this project.
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1) Wear protective gloves
while cleaning and stripping the stock. Easy-Off Oven Cleaner is
a very harsh cleaner on bare skin and eyes. The first time I did
this project, I did not wear gloves, the skin on my hands cracked
and was in sad shape afterwards. The fumes are also pretty toxic. |
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2) Easy-Off, Heavy Duty Oven Cleaner
is the best and quickest way of removing any type of finish
from a wood rifle stock. Really. It draws out all of the oil and
grease that has built up in the stock, over the years from cleaning
and storage of the rifle. |
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3) I recommend you do the cleaning outside.
It is easier to use a hose for clean off and you need an area with
good ventilation because of the fumes. |
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4) Coat the entire stock with a good thick
coat of Easy-Off. Wait an hour before rinsing off the rifle. When
rinsing, wipe down the stock with a rag to remove oil, dirt, and
old finish. Continue applying Easy-Off as many as three times to
really get out the years of grime. Afterwards in a sink, use a good
detergent and scrub brush to remove any oven left-over Oven Cleaner
or debris from the rifle stock. |
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6) Allow the rifle to dry over night before
doing any sanding. Even after stripping off the finish from the
surface of the stock, you will still find oil stains and such. Don't
worry, these stains will likely come out during sanding. Because
of the moisture, most of the dings and nicks will swell up and expand,
filling in the holes, for you to sand over. The larger dings will
not fill in. *Note: I have heard from several reliable sources
that applying a hot, clothing iron's steam to either large
or small dings on a rifle stock, through a damp cloth, will lift
out the toughest of marks or dents.
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7) In preparation for sanding,
you should have varying grades of sand paper. I start out with a
course 60 grit and slowly work my self to a fine 220 grit grade
sand paper. |
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8) Make sure you use a sanding block of
some sort. It definitely makes the work go easier. Also it gives
a uniform surface for the sand paper to rest against. |
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9) The sanding is the most strenuous task
of this project, depending on the condition of the stock it could
take an hour to several days to finish. No kidding. I really do
not look at this as an economical endeavor in the way of time. It
is really a labor of love. For what your time costs you - you could
probably just purchase a nicer stock and throw away the old one.
But what would be the fun in that? |
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Figures 11 and 12 show the contrast between
"before sanding" and "after sanding
". After sanding the stock, almost all of the oil stains and discolorations
have been removed.
*Remember this project is intended for the rifle you want to
look nice, but really has no collectable value. Still, try not to
sand off any manufacture or armory marks, if possible.
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10) I use very dark stains. The wood used
in stocks is usually a very dense wood and does not take stain very
well. To bring the rifle's finish back to its original color and
tone, you will have to use a fairly dark stain like Mahogany, Ebony,
or Dark Walnut. |
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Even using these colors of stain will require three
to four applied coats before you get the desired effect. |
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11) Take a wire coat hanger and untwist
it. Usually you can hook the hanger into one of the cleaner rod
holes, bayonet holes, etc. to hang and allow the stock to dry. When
the last coat of stain is finished drying, sand the stock very lightly
with a 220 grit sand paper to remove any wood fibers that the stain
may have lifted.
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12) I like to apply a Satin Finish, Polyurethane
finish coat over the stain. I will hang the rifle in an area with
good ventilation and minimal dust and particles floating around.
I apply very thin coats of finish over the entire external surface
of the rifle stock. |
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I do this instead of applying thick coats, to prevent
unsightly runs in the finish. I repeat this step four to five times.
Then allow the rifle stock to dry for around twenty-four hours. |
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13) After the final finish is dried, you
will find that the finish is sometimes grainy to the touch. Don't
worry, take steel wool and lightly steel wool the
surface until the finish is smooth to the touch. |
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14) Reassemble the rifle. |
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Figures 20, 21 and 22 show the finished
product. All of the blemishes, except one large one located on the
right, rear of the butt stock, have been removed. All the unnatural
wood discoloration caused by man and petroleum products over the
years, has also been removed. |
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Every rifle type has a different finish. Try to match the original
finish as best possible. The stain and polyurethane method
may not work for all rifles. You may have to use Tung or Linseed
oil as a finish. Most of the Garands are finished this way. What
will work on all rifle stocks is the Easy-Off Oven Cleaner trick.
I have been using this for years and really love the quick results.
You can really get out all of the excess oil locked in the wood
from years of mistreatment or storage.
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I know this may article may offend some collectors, that feel
you should leave a rifle as is. That refinishing detracts from the
value of the rifle. Please keep in mind this is a $50 rifle.
The only person it has value to, is me. Also I do not claim to be
a cabinet maker or a master craftsman. I just want a durable, good
looking finish on my rifle stock.
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