Enfield No. 4 Mk 2 Range Report

I thought that I would prefer a No. 4 Mk 2.  I had read prior to my purchase about the modification in design of the No. 4's trigger placement. This design modification placed the Mk 2's trigger on the body of the action (receiver) as opposed to the Mk 1's trigger being located on the trigger guard.

Granted, since I currently live in a very moderate climate and do not have to worry about great fluctuations in temperature and humidity even with a No.4 Mk 1, my trigger pull would most likely be very consistent. The Mk 1's problem was originally discovered when fluctuating temperatures and humidity would cause the fore-end wood to expand and contract. This would apply pressure on the trigger assembly. Basically this would cause the trigger pull to change as the weather changed.

I have several Enfield rifles, mostly No. 1 Mk IIIs. Ever since I had watched Peter O'Toole as Lawrence of Arabia on the big screen (when I was a kid) I have wanted to ride on a camel charging against the Turks in Acaba with my SMLE at the ready. Don't get me wrong - I really like the No. 1 Mk III series of rifles, but I really like the cleaner lines of the Enfield No. 4. 

The No. 4 Mk 2 to me is the pinnacle of a service bolt action rifle and it was damned time I had one of my own.

Enfield No. 4 Mk 2 Rifle ready for action at the range. Note the slip-on rubber butt stock pad.

I was able to discern this information from the model, mark, factory designation, and date of manufacture stamped on the left side of the action of the rifle:

Markings from the left of the No. 4 Mk 2 Action

According to Stratton, my rifle was manufactured for the Irish Republic, but because of political problems (duh) the rifle was never delivered and was kept in storage. Stratton makes reference to this fact, saying that only 50,000 rifles were manufactured for this order between the serial numbers PF309348 to PF359347 of which range my rifle's serial number falls within. These rifles are sometimes referred to as the "Irish Contract Rifles".

I think that doing research and discovering facts about the rifles you own and collect is a great part of the fun. I like to know and understand the history of my rifles as best possible. It is amazing to hold something and imagine the history associated with it. It is even better to know it.

Enfield No. 4 - 10 round detachable magazine and 2 boxes of commercial 174 grain FMJ BT ammo.

The magazine was only to be removed during cleaning or maintenance of the rifle. This was not uncommon for detachable magazine fed service rifles of the 20th century. I actually saw a video the other day about the U.S. Army adopting the M14 rifle. The soldier was feeding stripper clips into the top of the action. Amazing because we really don't think of the M14 or M1A as being a stripper clip fed rifle.

Take the SKS carbine as an example, the Soviets decided that magazine production costs were much higher than the cost of developing stripper clips. They felt that the average rifleman could be just as efficient loading a rifle with the stripper clip once they gained minimal proficiency. These views were somewhat universal throughout the world's armies at the time.

Also, you have to take into consideration the weight factor. Each foot soldier usually carried every single item they would need to sustain them in battle for an indeterminate number of days. Because of this fact, magazines added unnecessary weight to their carried loads.

I have closely inspected the magazine of the No. 4 and see no reason why you can't load them while detached from the action. You could possibly have several magazines handy. Really, the only thing prohibiting this is the cost difference between the stripper clip and the magazine (very similar dilemma and circumstances the armies of the 20th century faced).

The magazines can be found - but carry a premium price of upwards of around $35, while the stripper clip cost usually less than $2. So unless you are wealthy, you get to pretend that you are a soldier of the British Empire carrying the No. 4 into battle against the Axis Powers in WW II, all the while  charging your magazine from the top manually or with a stripper clip.

The magazine release is found at the front inside of the trigger guard. By depressing the magazine release, the magazine easily exits the action.

The magazine capacity for the No. 4 is 10 rounds.

For my first shooting session I chose to use commercially loaded .303 ammunition. Both ammo types were of 174 grain FMJ BT type and specification. I figured this would be a good and level test and would closely simulate the military loaded .303.

Loaded magazine at the ready.

Note: There are a number of variations of the gradient leaf type sight found on the No. 4s

During war production (WWII) the No. 4s were manufactured with a dual peep/battle style pop-up sight (designated the Mk 2 rear sight and usually calibrated for 300 and 600 yards, although some No. 4s have been found that are set to 200 and 400 yards) instead of the graduated aperture sight shown in figure 4. The Mk 2 designated pop-up sight picture looks similar to figure 6.

1st Variation Backsight Leaf Sight with 300 yard battle sight and leaf graduations of 200 to 1300 yards.

In my opinion the aperture hole of the rear sight should be smaller. I make this statement about my needs for target or competition style shooting (sight picture shown in figure 5).

Because of the small size of the front sight blade and the larger aperture of the rear sight, I think it is difficult to align the No. 4's front sight with the center of the rear sight.

On the other hand for battle conditions the aperture hole is the correct size for the soldier to quickly ascertain the sight picture. 

To move the sight aperture up and down the leaf, this is accomplished simply enough by rotating the thumb actuated adjusting screw nut as pictured in figure 4.

1st Variation Backsight Leaf Sight  - Sight Picture

300 yard Battle Sight - Sight Picture

Step 1: Pull the trigger until you feel the pressure that builds until you can stop/pause.

Rambling Detour: The No. 4 's  trigger is a very smooth trigger.

I mean "top of the scale" smooth trigger.

My measurement scale of trigger pull is an arbitrary scale of measurement that I have developed in my head over the years as I have shot mil-surp rifles. The scale starts at the bottom (worst, lowest, and abominable) with an Albanian SKS that I own (this statement is not true of all SKS carbines). With this Albanian SKS you can feel the canyons, valleys, and crevices in every single millimeter of the trigger pull. Imagine dragging your hand across broken glass and you have the proper analogy in mind. It never breaks consistently and takes Arnold Schwarzenegger strength to pull through. 

The scale ends or tops out with my new No. 4 (best, creamy smooth, a dream transformed into mechanical reality).

Step 2: Next you pull the trigger through the break until it stops.

What I have described above repeats consistently every single time you pull my No. 4's trigger (sounds like a fart joke).

It is a very simple trigger to learn and master. Once you have mastered it, the rifle is a very accurate tool in your hands.

Note: I have since visited the range and have actually experienced better groupings than shown if figures 7, 8, 9, and 10.  I really like this rifle!

A ways back a friend of mine gave me a rather large package of the little florescent stickers (500).

I have not been to the optometrist in over two years - which is a mistake - and my glasses are no longer the correct prescription. Things are just a little more difficult to see, especially out at ranges of 100 yards and greater.

I usually use the NRA, SR-1 100 Yard Targets. The SR-1 is a great target to shoot at because the large black ringed section is easily seen at great distances. The only problem is that if you are photographing your targets (something a majority of us probably don't do), you need to change the entire target out every time (or use those pesky target repair centers - and that is if I have kept all my rounds in the center rings to begin with). I have tried smaller targets, but they are more difficult for me to see and therefore to hit.

So, now I create three bull's-eyes on a single SR-1 target. Each of the little red dots are one inch in diameter and when you place them in the configuration shown above in figure 7, you have a very nice and visible target to shoot at.

Note: Another alternative to all this fancy sticker work is to use the Birchwood Casey ShootNC  target stickers.

jlm;)

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