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I have been a collectors of
mil-surp guns for some time and do quite a bit of gunsmithing in my home shop on both modern and
mil-surp firearms. I've recently come up with a way to eliminate
one of the common and frustrating problems with the
Mosin-Nagant 1891/30,
M44,
M38, and
1891/59 rifles.
This modification does not apply to
Finnish rifles.
As we all know, Mosin-Nagant
Rifles and Carbines generally shoot high - as much as
five to eight inches high at one hundred yards. Most of us enjoy shooting
these rifles in their original military configuration without making
a lot of alterations that take away from the history of the guns.
The method we have come up with for solving the high-shooting problem
involves no permanent alterations to the gun (at least, nothing
that cannot be easily and inexpensively replaced) and is almost
un-noticeable (except, of course, for how much better the gun
will shoot).
To lower your point of aim you need to increase the height of
the front sight post (Note figure 1 for explanation). The method involves replacing the front sight post
with what you might call an infinitely adjustable post. By making
this modification to the front sight, or to a spare sight you may
have, you'll be able to easily and quickly adjust elevation point
of impact for various loads and ranges.
Most people should be able to make this modification at home if
they are accustomed to doing a little work on their guns. If not,
find a friend who *is* so accustomed; or a gunsmith probably wouldn't
charge very much to do this, as it is a quick and simple operation
requiring only the drilling of two holes and the tapping of one.
The entire operation will take less than thirty minutes.
You will be removing the old front sight post, drilling a hole completely
through the base of the sight in the position of the old post, drilling
another hole that is perpendicular (at a right angle) to
the first hole so that the two holes meet, and tapping the latter
hole (the one that was drilled to be
perpendicular to the first) with a 6-48 tap for a set screw
to hold the new front sight post in place.
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TOOLS NEEDED: |
| 1.
A small brass or other non-marring drift |
| 2.
A small hammer |
| 3.
Needle nose pliers |
| 4.
Possibly a small half-round file |
| 5.
1/32 bit (approximate size, can be slightly larger) |
| 6.
A center punch |
| 7.
A small slotted screwdriver or appropriate hex wrench |
| 8.
A drill press (preferred) or an electric hand drill |
| 9.
A #31 drill bit |
| 10.
A 6-48 tap (taper, bottom or plug) and a tap handle |
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NOTE: |
| The
#31 drill bit and the 6-48 tap can be inexpensively purchased
from a supplier such as Brownell's. Don't even think about looking
for these at your local hardware store. |
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MATERIALS NEEDED: |
| 1.
A length of suitable rod to fashion new sight posts |
| 2.
A 6-48 scope base filler plug screw (slotted or hex). |
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The MIT machinist
reference describes tapping as - |
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A tap has
cutting edges to cut the threads and straight flutes to allow chips
to be expelled. The end of the tap is tapered slightly to help the
tap get started. Taps are hard and brittle so you should be careful
working with them (try not to drop them or force them into a hole
when stuck). Be sure that the hole you drilled is the correct size
for the tap you're using or it may break inside.
Put the tap in place and apply moderate pressure as you turn the
tap. It's good practice to back the tap up a bit for every quarter
turn of thread you cut.
Copyright © 2001 by Massachusetts Institute
of Technology (MIT).
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STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS |
| 1) Using a drift and a hammer, remove the front sight from
the barrel (figures 3 & 4). |
 |
 |
| 2) Using a pair of
needle nose pliers, gently work the old sight post back and
forth (figure 5) until it breaks off at its base.
You may be able to
drive out the old sight post from the top. If the post does
not break off flush from its base, use a small half-round file
to file it flush (figure 6). |
 |
 |
| 3) To drill the first
hole (figure 7): working from the top of the hood and using a 1/32 bit
(approximate, but not much larger; you may want to slightly
enlarge the hole later), drill all the way through the base
of the sight in the position of the old post. This operation
is most easily accomplished with a drill press, but it may be
done with an electric hand drill if you are careful to drill
as straight as possible. Remember to use a little light oil
or cutting oil as you drill. |
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| 4) For the second
hole (figure 8): working from the front or rear of the sight, center punch the position of the second hole exactly
in the center of the area between the bottom of the hood and
the base of the sight. Using a #31 drill drill this hole in
the position made by the center punch down into - but not through
- the hole you drilled in step 3 above. These two holes, from Steps 3 and 4, will now
be perpendicular (at right angles). |
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IMPORTANT NOTES:
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1) Do not use a drill larger than #31. This is the
correct drill size for 6-48.
2) Be very careful to position
your center punch mark *exactly centered* in the area described
above because this area is quite narrow, and drilling just a
bit too high or too low will cause the drill to break through
the edge of the sight; and although it might "technically" still
work to hold the set screw, it makes for a very unsightly job.
Remember that once this hole is drilled, it will need to be
tapped, which will also slightly enlarge the diameter of the
hole.
|
 |
| 5) Now, you will
proceed to tap the hole you just drilled (in Step 4)
with a 6-48 tap. The 6-48 tap allows you to use a very common
scope base plug screw as your set screw, and I believe most
of us will probably have some of these. However if you have
a short 6-48 hex-type set screw it would be even better but
the more common slotted one will work (figure 10). |
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| 6) Install
and tighten the set screw firmly (figure 11). |
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| 7) To make
your new sight post: the post on my 91/30 measured .080 in
diameter. I prefer a slightly wider post, so I used a piece
of .095 welding rod. Measure a length of the rod to be from
the base of the sight to about 3/4 height (figure 11)
of the sight hood and then cut the post to length (figure
12). |
 |
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| 8) Insert the new post
at a position slightly higher than half the inside diameter
of
the hood (figure 13) and tighten the set screw. |
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Figure 14 shows
the new post installed next to the old post. Note that I
used a length of screw that I had available when working on
this project. I will add a shorter and less visible screw
later. |
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| 9) Using
the drift and hammer reinstall the front sight into its
dovetail on the barrel. |
Voila! You now have an infinitely
adjustable front sight post on a Mosin-Nagant. By making posts of different lengths,
you will easily be able to adjust point of elevation impact for
various loads and ranges.
You can also use the set screw to move the post up and down slightly
for fine adjustment. You can change the post in less than ten seconds.
In fact, the whole operation I described above, of making your new
adjustable front sight, takes much less time than it took us to
write this "how-to" article.
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