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Cosmoline Removal! |
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| Article Contributed by: Jamie Mangrum | |||||||||
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I am astonished that it has taken us this long to
publish something on Cosmoline removal because of how
fundamental a skill it is for mil-surp collecting. The problem is
that there are so many different methods that I have
read about or get submitted to us via email. Up until now
everything I tried was either difficult or took days and
literally pounds of rags and elbow grease to get the job
done. I have decided to show what method I use as well
as give you a list of reader submitted tips on breaking
the back of our greatest nemesis: Cosmoline. |
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| Cosmoline: A yellowish or light-amber colored ointment like mass, having a slight fluorescence, petroleum like odor and taste (do not taste it please). Similar to Vaseline in properties, appearance, and thickness. It is the residue obtained in the distillation of petroleum oils and then purified. Cosmoline is a homogenous mixture of oily and waxy long-chain, non-polar hydrocarbons. It can range in color from white to yellow and differ from one another in consistency and shear strength. Cosmoline melts at 113°-125° F and has a flashpoint of 365° F. | |||||||||
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Removing cosmoline is not only the most important skill that a mil-surp firearm collector needs to learn but it is also a rights of passage event that welcomes and also initiates you into the world of curio and relic firearms. You are not really a mil-surp collector until you purchase a rifle and get it home to find that the amount of cosmoline on the firearm outweighs the actual weight of the firearm. Cosmoline has been used for quite awhile by the world's military establishments as a firearm storage preservative. Actually cosmoline is still used by many commercial industries as a rust inhibitor for shipping and long term storage of vehicles, machine parts, and tools. You can purchase cosmoline from MidwayUSA as well as Brownells. I have spent many a Saturday in the back yard on a tarp, wearing goggles and thick rubber gloves with a piles of rags, nylon cleaning brushes, and a wide variety of cleaners and chemicals. It has always been a messy and long process but a winnable battle. Prior to this article I used to send this as an answer to the cosmoline questions that would come in via email:
The above method works very well and is better for the ecology and the human body than using some of the caustic chemicals that are available as cleaners. My friend Charles Buckner who some of you may have known as ARebelSon in the Surplusrifle.com message forums spoke to me about the best investment he had ever made for cleaning newly acquired firearms that were caked in the brown menace (cosmoline). He purchased a portable hand steamer. He picked it up at a budget tool supply house. Note: Charles passed away in July of 2004 and leaves a void in all of the hearts of those who knew him. I had not taken any heed to his advice until recently when I picked up a couple of rifles that were completely embalmed in cosmoline. I was almost afraid that the actual firearms had long since ceased to exist and what I brought home was just some sort of strange 3-D representation in petroleum. I wiped off as much as I could with shop towels but the SKS had cosmoline packed into every single orifice that was possible (inside all gas tubes and assemblies). I could not even pull the bolt back at first and when I finally did it would not close on its own without help. I am sure you know what I am talking about because you have probably had a similar experience in your collecting life. If not then you will, I promise. I was walking by an end-cap display at a local Home Depot store and what did I see? A small hand steamer for less than $40. I picked one up and made the dash for home. Charles had never steered me wrong before. |
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A funny note: The females in my family are wildly amazed
by cool cleaning appliances. I still remember the
cleaning competitions my wife and daughter had when they
first purchased the vacuum cleaner. The vacuum is one where you can
actually watch the dirt being sucked up into a
see-through collection container. They wanted to see
which one of them could suck up the most stuff off of
the carpet. It was amazing to watch. The new steamer was
no exception. My daughter spent at least a half an hour
with me, making me clean the outside of the garage door
and other cabinets while watching with a gleam in her eye as
dirt just lifted right off of the surface. Even
when I started cleaning off my SKS she hung around and
let out quite a few oohs and ahhs as large clumps
of cosmoline would just melt off the firearm and fall to
the plastic bin I was using to collect the crud. I can't
wait until we have to replace the washer and dryer! When you are cleaning cosmoline caked firearms you really need a large commercial grade parts washing tub to contain the splatter and mess. I am talking large 40 gallon capacity. All right, all right that is the dream world! Since most of us don't have the resources or space to own something like that in our cramped workshops that most of us call that corner in the garage my wife lets me use. Instead I usually purchase large plastic storage bins that you can find at most large hardware or general purpose discount stores like Wal-Mart or Target. They are stackable and will usually run you less than $10. If the project takes more than a couple days you can close the lids and come back later to continue making a mess. These things are a real marriage saver. Unless you forget to close the lid and the cat gets in and plays around and then comes into the house and rolls around on your wife's kitchen floors. |
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| My first candidate firearm was a newly acquired Yugoslav model 59 SKS. No, not a Yugo 59/66 SKS with the grenade launcher. The Yugo 59 is the predecessor to the 59/66 and has a lot of similarities that I will cover in a later article and range report but for the most part except for the wood used in the stock this SKS looks like the original Russian SKS. As you can see in figures 1 and 2 the carbine was caked in aging cosmoline that had taken on the characteristics of tile grout. I could not even move any of the components that make up the rear sight. | |||||||||
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| I hit the outside with steam and after about 5 minutes the cosmoline just dripped off into the large plastic storage bin. | |||||||||
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Once I was able to break down the parts (disassemble), I
blasted them all with steam and the cosmoline turned into a milky
soap like substance and dripped away. Make sure you have
thick gloves while handling the hot parts. Some parts,
like the bolt, I used a pair of pliers to hold onto the
part because of the intense surface temperature while
steamed.
I have found that a bucket of Ed's Red homemade bore cleaner is fantastic and a cost effective means in soaking cosmoline coated parts as it just loosens everything up and makes running a nylon cleaning brush over the surface of everything short work. The components in Ed's Red are known to be some of the better and more successful chemicals in their individual rights in cleaning off cosmoline. It would stand to reason that in their combined form they would work even better. Make sure to wear protective clothing (gloves) and goggles when working with these harsh and dangerous chemicals. |
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| It only takes around 130° F to melt cosmoline and steamers spray out steam at around 180° F. This is the perfect temperature to break down and melt cosmoline but does not exceed the threshold of flashpoint so the cosmoline does not ignite. I also prefer the steam method over boiling water because there is not as much of a mess to clean up. Also, you do not want cosmoline being poured down your drainage pipes. It would not take long for the cosmoline to cool down and then solidify, adhering to the inside of your drainage pipes. Talk about repelling water and an impenetrable clog! | |||||||||
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| Note in figure 7 the cosmoline dripping out of the SKS receiver into the bottom of the storage tub. | |||||||||
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| Compare the bayonet in figure 8 with the same bayonet in figure 1. All of the years of built up grime and caked cosmoline just melted right off. | |||||||||
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I found that the steam when used on the stock also
leaches out a good amount of the cosmoline build up
leaving a dry and clean surface. You can really direct
the jets into nooks and crannies that are really hard to
get at. Conclusion: The steamer does not take everything off. It works really well to loosen up the really hardened stuff and it softens up the cosmoline making it really simple to remove with a standard cleaner. I now start out with the steamer to blow everything out, loosen up everything, and then I go to work with either Ed's Red or Goo Gone and I am done in half the time as before. A note on the bolt: When you buy an SKS that is caked with cosmoline make certain to check the bolt and you will most likely find the firing pin frozen in place. Cosmoline is everywhere! It is imperative to disassemble the bolt and remove the build up. I have a simple and effective way of cleaning any cosmoline caked bolt. Just take an old cooking pot that you no longer use and fill it with water. Place it on the stove and drop in the parts of the bolt. Bring the water to a boil for a short period. You will see a dark and smelly pool of oil rise to the surface. Once this happens remove the pot from the stove top and drain off the water and cosmoline. Be very careful as the the bolt parts will be very hot. Wipe down the surfaces with oil and place a small amount of oil inside the bolt. The oil will displace the water and prevent corrosion. This is a surefire way of removing cosmoline and get your bolt in top working order. SKS Bolt Note from Ben Murray: Be sure you disassemble breech bolt/firing pin assembly and clean thoroughly, at the least, to avoid slam fires and uncontrollable full auto. So, this is my latest methodology that I have grown into and found to work for me. Read on and find out what works for others as well. I just wish Charles were around so I could thank him. |
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| jlm; | |||||||||
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Miscellaneous Reader Submitted Cosmoline Removal Tips |
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Stock: *************************************************************** Tried something tonight that worked well for removing cosmoline from a barrelled action. The ingredients are: *************************************************************** Everybody was kinda shocked when I took my SKS out of my truck and started blowing it off. It was the first cleaning. *************************************************************** I have always used Naptha. It will clean both metal and wood, dries quickly, will not harm the finish of the wood or take off any color. Must be used outside though and don't rub too hard because it can ignite if too much static electricity builds up on the rag you use. Can be purchased at any hardware store or home center type store. ***************************************************************
The method involves kitty litter, a box, and either sunlight or your vehicle's trunk. The idea is that after burying the gunstock in kitty litter (without any odor-absorbing chemicals), you put the box in a place that gets very hot, the heat causes the oils and cosmoline to seep out of the stock and they are immediately absorbed by the kitty litter. This method may take a week or two. ***************************************************************
I have finished at least 12 military stocks from C&R rifles. Every time I have used the dishwasher. I completely disassemble the rifle and if the stock will fit, like a Garand, then I put it thru the Hi temp pots and pans cycle. Most of the dings and dents get raised, the cartouches are still in order, and the stock is completely stripped. No harsh chemicals, no inhaling fumes, no elbow grease. In about 1 hour its done. ***************************************************************
I fill the bath tub with hot water, enough to cover the stock and add dish soap (one table spoon). I then take a scrub brush and scrub the stock. Do not soak the stock because you do not want it to get water logged. I will then drain the tub and rinse the stock of any soap. This is usually the last step before sanding and prep the stock for any stain or sealer. I feel that this cleans the stock of any cleaner you use and the hot water will take some of the smaller dents out. Wipe the stock down good and let dry inside on a rack. ***************************************************************
Three or four applications of foaming tub & tile cleaner (aerosol) works rather well for light cosmoline and dirt removal. Super Purple degreaser works very well on caked on dirt and cosmoline. Not as good as putting some heat source to the wood, but works well enough. I've also used a heat gun on some thoroughly soaked Enfield parts. The tub & tile cleaner nor the Super Purple did the job. The heat gun made the cosmoline run right off.***************************************************************
Cleaning the Cosmoline from your rifle is a critical item. It is not hard, but you want to ensure you remove all of it. Cosmoline is more of a preservative than a grease. Take your time and make sure you have plenty of ventilation. *************************************************************** Cosmoline is one tough mother,two ways i've found to clean it from rifles are brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner Carb cleaner. Both are very good to use in tight spots. It just melts away just lay the parts in an oil drain pan works good and is cheap and easy no soaking in solvent. *************************************************************** I used Hoppes 9 with the aid of a toothbrush, along with some Break Free Powder Blast to clean my Yugo SKS and Mausers. It may take a while depending on the amount of cosmo you are dealing with. *************************************************************** My personal favorite is to buy a stretch of 4" PVC, cap it at one end, and then just dump mineral spirits into it. Take the barreled action, insert, and let sit for a bit. When it comes out, a lot of cosmoline should be gone, and you can nylon-brush/rag-wipe the remainder off. *************************************************************** Whenever I clean firearms I make sure to wear Nitrile gloves, use adequate ventilation, and wear eyeglasses. *************************************************************** I have used mineral spirts on all three of my surplus rifles. Pour about an inch or two into a bucket. Swirl often, and the cosmo just melts away.*************************************************************** The lazy man's and poor man's clean up is putting your rifle in the car and rolling the windows up on a nice hot sunny day, but make sure something is under it or your dash will be puddled with cosmoline, after a day in the car i could no longer get any cosmoline out of the gun, it was nice! ***************************************************************
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*************************************************************** Pure lacquer thinner is as a good stock cleaner. It evaporates, won't leave any film on the wood. Will clean off old finish, grime, gun oil and human body oils. *************************************************************** I always use Coleman fuel (for regular Coleman backpacking stoves) to remove cosmoline. I fill the deep end of a steel paint roller pan (about an inch from the top) and soak parts for an hour or so in our backyard. The cosmoline ends up on the bottom of the pan and the parts are clean. I follow up by swabbing parts with Coleman-soaked rags. I end up pouring Coleman fuel down the barrels of my guns with a funnel, then I swab it out with an old cleaning rod before I begin the finer work of cleaning in the basement. The EZ Off Oven Cleaner trick works well on the wood. I’m reworking an Enfield Number 1 Mark 4 at the moment and the EZ Off did a great job in preparing the wood for sanding. It’s messy, but the joy is seeing the diamond surface out of the sand. Anyway, thanks for your contribution. The article will help many people who struggle with de-gunking their firearms. *************************************************************** I have used Hoppes 9 cleaner very successfully to clean Yugo SKS rifles but it is smelly, mildly dangerous and can't be used indoors. (Assuming you want your wife to remain with you!) Recently discovered that a non-flammable, non-caustic, water soluble cleaner called "Spray 9" dissolves cosmoline. Sprayed all parts in the laundry tub, did minimal amount of brushing and then flushed with hot water, even the stock and gas tube cover. ALL cosmoline gone, no odder and stationery tub cleaner than when I started. *************************************************************** I read most of the long list of suggestions on Surplusrifle.com this morning regarding cosmoline removal, and tried a good number of them on a Yugo SKS I purchased recently. The gun was COVERED in the stuff, and even after boiling the metal parts for a while, my wife and I were still having to scrub to get it off. She soon began looking for alternatives, and one of the things she tried was a bar of her homemade lye soap. To our disbelieving amazement, just a little lye soap INSTANTLY & TOTALLY dissolved the cosmoline, leaving a perfectly clean and not sticky surface on both wood and metal even without heating at all. This discovery cut my de-greasing time by hours, and I was able to complete the job in about 1 hour. We used an old toothbrush and some toothpicks to get into tough areas, and our hands were cleaned of all residue by the soap as well. You can buy this soap as well, but it is a very popular homemade product. Remember, LYE SOAP! I really appreciate all the info I learned from your sight. I just wanted to pass along what I learned about cleaning cosmoline off from rifles. I read your article and it is more involved and the way I do it is super fast leaving the gun and stock just like you completely cleaned and lubricated it. I've had great success (with very little effort) by completely stripping the weapon down and soaking the parts in undiluted SIMPLE GREEN overnight. The next day remove the parts from the soaking pan and wipe them dry. Some clumps may remain in recesses but they can be easily cleaned out with a cotton swab or dental pic. You can also speed the drying process with canned air. All that is left to do is oil accordingly and reassemble. This works well for the metal parts, not sure about the wood. G'Day Jamie; I have been reading your articles for a couple of years now, i have found removing Cosmoline from mil-surp rifles the best and fastest way that works for me is lacquer thinner. It melts all the Cosmoline fast and i use it on the stocks. It dries quickly and does not harm the metal or wood parts. I have refinished all the guns i have purchased. And all the wood has turned out perfect. You must use this outside in well ventilated areas, and use proper eye and hand protection. The used product can be disposed of with your used oil. 1 gallon of lacquer thinner costs about $8.00-10.00 at your local home building center. Jamie,
Jamie, what works for me is to tie a piece of thin rope around the trigger guard and hang the rifle muzzle down fully enclosed in a black garbage bag (large 'Hefty'-type) with the open end left open (tied loose closed) over an old coffee can (or similar). The 'bagged' rifle then gets hung by the rope in the sun over a couple of weeks on my covered deck (it gets over 135 degrees out there in the hottest part of the summer) and gradually the cosmoline/greases/oils from the metal and wood all drip away down inside the bag and drain out the opening into the can. I've got as much as a half pound from one old Mauser using this method over three weeks and then all you have to do is wipe her down. Cost is a bout zero - effort about the same. Peter J/ Hi Jamie,
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| Some Miscellaneous Products that are Known to Work in the Removal of Cosmoline | |||||||||
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