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Article by Jamie Mangrum
 

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My friend Randall and I recently came up with the idea that we were going to venture to try our hand at DuraCoating a few firearms and we would document our effort in an article. DuraCoat is a two-part chemical based firearm coating manufactured by Lauer Custom Weaponry. One great thing about the DuraCoat product is the myriad of colors that are available. There are at least 60 stock colors and even what Lauer refers to as Electric Colors. There are currently seven of the Electric Colors with names like Lime, Sunburst, and O'Sherbert. Can you imagine your SKS or AK in Lime? Your imagination is your only limitation.

DuraCoat is a pretty easy finish to apply. All you need to do is clean and degrease your firearm. Then you mix and apply the DuraCoat finish with an airbrush or High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) spray gun. Randall has a large air compressor and air gun equipment so we were ready to go. If you do not have equipment already and don't want to spend a lot of money to get started then Lauer offers a starter kit (pictured below) for only $49.95 that Includes:

  • Airbrush with air hose and couplings
  • 9 oz. airbrush propellant with valve
  • color bottle with adapter
  • color bottle with cap
  • 4 oz DuraCoat stock color of your choice
  • 1 oz DuraCoat Hardener
  • 2 oz DuraCoat Reducer
  • 16 oz Aerosol TruStrip
  •  DuraCoat Instructional DVD.

We wrote Lauer prior to writing this article and asked if we could post the contents of the DuraCoat Instructional DVD and they said yes. So later in the article we offer all of the video for you to watch - all 59 minutes!

We selected our firearms for the project. I chose a sporterized Mosin Nagant m44 that has been spotlighted in several other articles on the Surplusrifle.com:

Lil' Black Beauty

Lil' Black Beauty Dresses Up

Her overall finish was the one thing that was still lacking. Since she is called Lil' Black Beauty I thought it only fitting that we use the color called Matte Black. I completely disassembled her and bagged the smaller parts we were going to finish. 

Bit off a little more than we can chew. We had selected too many firearms to coat.

Next we chose a Norinco SKS to finish. I had seen a Stainless Steel SKS in the forum and thought that would be a good theme to go with...so you guessed it! I selected the Stainless Steel DuraCoat. We also selected a couple of SIG pistols that had very worn finishes, but because of time constraints we did not have time to coat them. Randall had a great idea of building a frame that would allow us to hang parts so they were suspended in air while we sprayed them with DuraCoat. To build our stand we used a 2x4 cut in three pieces,  wood screws and some wire. As you can see in figures 2 and 3 it worked pretty dang well.

Randall building up the frame.

The Mosin barrel hanging in the frame.

What you need to get started!

DuraCoat EZ Finishing Kit

Includes: Airbrush with air hose and couplings, 9 oz. airbrush propellant with valve, color bottle with adapter, color bottle with cap, 4 oz DuraCoat stock color of your choice, 1 oz DuraCoat Hardener, 2 oz DuraCoat Reducer, 16 oz Aerosol TruStrip, DuraCoat Instructional DVD.

How much DuraCoat is needed to finish one rifle?

A 4 oz. container of DuraCoat will coat 1-2 long guns or 2-4 handguns.
Source: DuraCoat FAQ
Lauer says in their DuraCoat FAQ that DuraCoat loves to be applied over the top of parkerizing.

We wanted to try an experiment so we decided to parkerize the Mosin Nagant. First we blasted the Mosin Nagant down with aluminum oxide in a blasting chamber to the white (bare metal) and then we parkerized her. Randall said that once I saw the Mosin Nagant parkerized I would not want to continue and apply the DuraCoat finish. I thought about it and it was tempting but I decided we had come too far so we decided to proceed ahead. 

Parts cleaned and degreased with wire for hanging off the frame while coating.

Degrease

As in all finishes, proper surface prep is important. To ensure proper adhesion of the finish, all parts must be clean. We recommend degreasing with and ACN, NST, or our favorite, TruStrip as they leave no residue and dry fast. A clean surface is critical to your success so be sure to be thorough. Take your firearm apart as much as you feel comfortable. Remember: As long as your firearm is clean and free of oil, DuraCoat will adhere no matter how little you disassemble. 
Source: Supplied Instructions

Randall drying off the Mosin Nagant after parkerizing.

A close up of the parkerized Mosin.

What Colors Did We Choose?

We decided to use the Matte Black to refinish the sporterized Mosin.
We decided to use Stainless Steel and the Tapco T6 Adjustable Stock on a Norinco SKS.

 

 

 

 

 

With permission of Lauer Custom Weoponry we bring to you an online version of the DuraCoat Firearm Finishes Instructional Video!

DuraCoat DVD Videos

Title Duration File Size File Type

Preparation

Shake 00:28 361 KB Windows Media File
Mixing 00:36 439 KB Windows Media File

Technique

Spraying 02:24 1.74 MB Windows Media File
Technique 01:55 1.38 MB Windows Media File
DuraFill 01:51 1.32 MB Windows Media File
Clear 02:12 1.57 MB Windows Media File

Camouflage

Camo Step 1 06:41 4.84 MB Windows Media File
Camo Step 2 02:16 1.65 MB Windows Media File
Camo Step 3 00:38 480 KB Windows Media File
MirageFlage 13:38 9.88 MB Windows Media File
Desert Storm 11:34 8.26 MB Windows Media File

Clean-up

HVLP 03:14 2.34 MB Windows Media File
HVLP Advanced 03:03 2.18 MB Windows Media File

Equipment

LCW Ovens 03:50 2.78 MB Windows Media File
Hobby Brushes 00:41 499 KB Windows Media File
Gravity Flow 02:32 1.82 MB Windows Media File
Advanced HVLP Features 02:19 1.56 MB Windows Media File
Total 59:52 43.58 MB  
 
We thoroughly cleaned and degreased all of the parts prior to applying any finish. We used a degreaser Randall had that you mix with water and then heat. We placed all of the parts in the hot solution and left them in for almost an hour. Then just for good measure we used the DuraCoat TruStrip to ensure we had properly cleaned and degreased the surface of all of the parts before applying the DuraCoat finish.

Do I need a special degreaser?

Yes. Some degreasers, especially those used in the automotive industry, can leave a residue. This residue will form a barrier between the surface and DuraCoat causing a coating failure. We manufacture TruStrip degreaser solely for the firearms industry. TruStrip is capable of cleaning the contaminates commonly found on and in firearms and will not leave a residue.
Source: DuraCoat FAQ
The instructions state the importance of shaking the DuraCoat before use because the binding agent will settle on the bottom of the container. Randall shook the bottles for at least four minutes prior to mixing. Next we mixed the DuraCoat Hardener with the DuraCoat. It should be mixed at a ratio of Twelve to One. That is twelve parts DuraCoat to one part DuraCoat Hardener. For small batches we found it is the easiest to use a standard ten ml syringe without a needle. You can easily suck up ten ml and squeeze it into the mixer bottle followed by another two ml and then one ml of Hardener.
 

Optimum DuraCoat Hardener Ratio:

1:12 (1 part Hardener to 12 parts DuraCoat). The best way to combine Hardener with DuraCoat using measuring spoons is: 4 Tablespoons DuraCoat to 1 Teaspoon Hardener or a fraction of: 2 Tablespoons DuraCoat to 1/2 Teaspoon Hardener.
Source: Supplied Instructions

Randall sucking up 10 ml of matte black DuraCoat.

Filling the mixing container with DuraCoat.

Placing the 1 part Hardener in the mixing container.

Randall spraying DuraCoat on our Mosin Sporter.

As I said prior, for our project we used an airbrush and air compressor. Randall, per the instructions tested the spray on a test surface before proceeding to our test weapons. We found the DuraCoat gave great coverage of the surface. One note I need to make is it took considerably more DuraCoat to cover the parkerized surface of the Mosin than the non-parkerized SKS. The parkerized surface just sops up the DuraCoat like a hungry monster. This is a good thing because it means that the DuraCoat is binding with the parkerized surface.

Applying DuraCoat

DuraCoat can be applied by airbrush, conventional automotive spray gun, HVLP systems or airless paint sprayer. Fill your sprayer and you are ready to begin.

Test your spray gun by coating a test piece of metal or plastic.

If your sprayer does not spray DuraCoat evenly, add DuraCoat reducer (up to 20% by volume), increase air pressure, or both.

  • Spray with smooth, even passes, building DuraCoat to the desired thickness.
  • Stop intermittently to allow the solvents to flash-off.
  • Spray from .25 mil minimum thickness to 1.5 mil maximum DuraCoat thickness.
  • Spray distance from sprayer to firearm surface: 4" to 8", depending on desired effect.

The optimum thickness is 1 mil. A thinner coating will be required on tight tolerance areas and a thicker coating can be applied to high wear areas.

Source: Supplied Instructions

Randall airbrushing on the second coat of DuraCoat onto the Mosin receiver.

You can see how our stand worked well for small parts.

We even disassembled the Mosin trigger and applied DuraCoat.

We ran two wires across the top of our stand and it helped us even paint the heads of screws. Per the recommendation in the instructions we did not spray finish on the threads of the screws.

Spraying the SKS was a little tricky because we had to tape off some of the internal parts like the gas port and so on. Also the SKS has a lot more curved surfaces and nooks and crannies than the Mosin.
We picked up the stand and rotated it 180 degrees to get at the other side of the SKS receiver. A safety note that I would like to make is you really need to work in a very well ventilated area. If possible you should wear a respirator. The fumes produced while finishing several rifles can be quite strong. We had the garage and a side door open with a fan blowing out the front garage door for air circulation.

Randall spraying Stainless Steel DuraCoat onto the magazine of the SKS.

We opted to not disassemble the trigger and also did not spray DuraCoat into the mechanical parts. We only coated the trigger, safety lever and exposed portion of trigger frame.

Randall spraying the receiver cover. This is what I would consider a high wear part and so we applied many coats of finish.

After applying several coats of DuraCoat finish to both the SKS and the Mosin sporter we allowed both firearms and associated parts to dry over night. I went back the next day to Randall's to pick them up and bring them to my house. We wanted the finish to really harden so I placed both in my home made Easy Bake Garbage Can for a couple hours. The suggested baking temperature is 110 degrees F. I was able to maintain this temperature with lower wattage light bulbs than I use when seeping out cosmoline from a wooden stock.

Drying Time

 After the final coat has been applied, air dry overnight. At this point he finish is cured enough for light use. The finish will fully cure in a couple of weeks. Maximum resistance to abrasion, impact, and chemicals is attained in three to four weeks. You can speed up the drying process by baking for one hour at 100 degrees F. This is the same as air drying overnight.
Source: Supplied Instructions

Lil' Black Beauty is now completely finished.

My SKS looks out of this world or as my wife said it looks Pimptastic! So, I now dub her my PimpKS!
It is now a couple weeks after we refinished both rifles and the weather has been poor on weekends so I have not been able to go to the range. This is a good thing anyways because it is good to be cautious and allow the the DuraCoat finished firearms to cure before taking them to the range and subjecting them to extreme heat followed by the attack of the cleaning solvents.

The DuraCoat finish on both firearms looks great and appears to be very durable. I really like Lil Black Beauty. She is gorgeous!

Soon when the weather improves I am taking both both my girls out for a maiden shooting session so they can sport their new coats!

 

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Article by Jamie Mangrum