Collecting and Shooting the Military Surplus Rifle (2006)

Article by Jamie Mangrum

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I purchased an M1 Garand without a stock. I borrowed the stock pictured in figure 1 from a friend and needed to return it so I was looking for a replacement. I had installed a Boyds' stock on my 7.62 NATO Garand that I had built and really liked the beauty of the walnut wood. I ordered one and when I opened the box I could smell the light coating of oil on the new stock. Love that smell! I was not disappointed - the grain of the wood is just beautiful as my first stock. I have recently gotten a few emails from folks asking for instructions on removing all of the metal parts off of the old stock and installing them on a new stock.

1) Everything ready to go!

Boyds' Finished M1 Garand Rifle Stock $78.28

http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/BrowseEbus/Militarym1garand.asp

2) I cocked the hammer and applied the safety.

3) I next pulled the trigger guard backwards and rotated the guard forward.

4) I removed the trigger assembly and set it aside.

5) Next I lifted the receiver out of the stock.

6) I then installed the new stock to see if I needed to do any inletting on the trigger area.

7) Luckily for me my trigger a snug fit, but fit fine as it should.

8) If you attempt to install your trigger and it will not close down and lock, the following figures show suggested areas on the stock to inlet.

9) The areas shown in figure 8 and 9 are the most likely areas you would need to inlet. Simply filing down a very small amount of the surface on both sides and frequently checking the fit. The trigger assembly should be a tight fit.

10) Figures 10 through 12 are possible other areas that may require inletting.

11)Figures 10 through 12 are possible other areas that may require inletting.

12) Figures 10 through 12 are possible other areas that may require inletting.

13) I unscrewed the upper butt plate screw.

14) Then I removed the upper butt plate screw.

15) I unscrewed the lower butt plate screw.

16) Next I removed the lower butt plate screw.

17) Then I removed the swivel.

18) I removed the butt plate.

19) I then unscrewed the ferrule swivel screw.

20) Then I unscrewed the ferrule swivel screw.

21) Next I removed the swivel.

22) It may be necessary to spread the ferrule a small amount before removal. I did with mine. Next I used a piece of wooden dowel to tap it forward

23) Then I removed the ferrule off the stock.

24) I next installed the butt plate on the new stock.

25) Then I installed and tightened the upper butt plate screw.

26) I installed the rear sling swivel.

27) Then I installed the lower butt plate screw and tightened it down.

28) I slid the ferrule over the front of the stock.

29) Next I used a pair of pliers padded with tape to slightly compress the ferrule back into shape.

30) I installed the swivel.

31) Then I installed the swivel screw.

32) Next I tightened down the swivel screw.

33) Figure 33 shows the M1 Garand Combination Maintenance Tool

Here are the uses for the tool:

Remove and replace the gas cylinder lock screw and various other screws; and seat the rear sight base;
Extract a cartridge case;
Remove pins and assemble the extractor and ejector;
Assemble and disassemble the extractor and ejector without removing the bolt from the rifle;
Clean the chamber of the barrel;
Install the extractor spring and plunger.

M1 Garand Combo Tool $22.50

34) Using the combination tool's screw driver, I turned the gas cylinder lock screw counter clockwise. Note that you should not hold onto the forward handguard for leverage as you can damage it. I held onto the barrel and gas assembly.

35) I removed the gas cylinder lock screw.

36) Then I rotated the gas cylinder lock counter clockwise.

37) I then removed the gas cylinder lock.

38) Then I slid the gas cylinder forward and off.

39) Next I slid the upper hand guard forward.

40) To remove the lower band pin I lightly tapped it out.

41) Then I slid the lower band forward.

42) I then slid the lower hand guard forward.

43) To remove the hand guard spacer I lifted the tabs up on the hand front of the hand guard spacer.

44) Next I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the hand guard spacer out from the rear of the hand guard.

45) Figure 45 shows the removed spacer.

46) Using a flat blade screw driver I carefully tapped the front hand guard ferrule forward.

47) Next I removed the ferrule.

48) It is possible you may have to remove a small amount of wood off of the front of the hand guard. If the hand guard you install is longer it is possible for the gas port to be constricted order blocked causing the gas system to not function properly.

49) My hand guard was a tad too long so I filed it down.

50) Next I installed the ferrule.

51) I installed the hand guard spacer from the rear as shown in figure 51.

52) The tabs on the hand guard spacer should be all the way forward as shown in figure 52.

53) Using a non marring tool I tapped the tabs down on the front of the hand guard spacer to secure the front hand guard ferrule in place.

54) Figure 54 shows the hand guard clip installed on the old hand guard.

	55) Figure 55 shows a Badger Ordnance M1 Garand/M14 hand guard clip pliers. Removal of the hand guard clip can be accomplished without the tool, but it is easy to damage the hand guard. Since I own several Garands and plan on someday owning more I made the investment and am very happy with the tool.
Badger Ordnance Hand Guard Clip Pliers $24.95

56) Using the hand guard clip pliers I spread the clip.

57) Next I rotated the clip as shown in figure 57 and then slid it off of the old hand guard.

58) Reversing the steps I slid the tool and clip over the new hand guard.

59) I then rotated the clip into place and allowed the clip to contract slowly and then I removed the pliers.

60) Figure 60 shows the clip installed on the new hand guard.

61) Snap the rear hand guard band clip into the grooves in the side of the barrel.

62) Figure 62 shows the clip properly resting in the grooves on the barrel.

63) I slid the lower band till it mated with the lower hand guard.

64) I then inserted the lower band pin.

65) Then I slid the upper hand guard over the barrel and operating rod.

66) Next I slid the upper hand guard to the rear until it fit up against the lower band.

67) Figure 67 show the gas port on the barrel.

68) Figure 68 shows the opening in the gas cylinder. It is important that the two holes mate for proper gas function.

69) I slid the gas cylinder up against the hang guard ferrule at the front of the upper hand guard.

70) Then I threaded the gas cylinder lock clockwise until it rested against the gas cylinder and allows the gas cylinder plug to be inserted.

71) I then inserted the gas cylinder plug into the gas cylinder lock. I then hand tightened the the gas cylinder lock screw by turning it clockwise.

72) Using the combination tool's screw driver I turned the gas cylinder lock screw clockwise. Note that you should not hold onto the forward handguard for leverage as you can damage it. Hold onto the barrel and gas assembly.

73) I then pivoted the barrel and receiver into the stock.

74) My last step was to install the trigger assembly and lock it down.

The finished job is solid, beautiful and functional. I retained my original accuracy and the gas system cycles just fine. I am a happy man!

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Article by Jamie Mangrum