Collecting and Shooting the SKS Carbine - Lightening the SKS Trigger (Trigger Job)

Click on any image below to see a larger version of the image.

SKS Trigger Parts Legend

Part #	Part Description
1	Hammer
2	Hammer Strut
3	Hammer Spring
4	Trigger Spring
5	Trigger Bar
6	Disconnector
7	Safety Catch
8	Safety Catch Spring
9	Rebound Disconnector
10	Sear
11	Latch/Sear Spring
12	Cover Latch
13	Trigger Guard
14	Trigger
15	Latch Stop Pin
16	Disconnector Hinge Pin
17	Trigger Pin
18	Safety Catch Pin
19	Trigger Bar Pin

Introduction

I own a few SKS carbines (notice I did not state an exact figure; my wife may actually read this article - just kidding) and probably half of them have triggers that are either as difficult to pull as pulling the bumper off of my truck with my trigger finger or the pull feels like running your hand over gravel or a combination of both!.

I wondered as to what could be done to improve the trigger on the carbine. I have found a lot of different websites, message boards, and articles that talk about this and have even found some folks that will actually do the job for you.

After reviewing all of the accumulated research I have come up with the following simple approach:

Wolff Gun Springs makes a set of replacement springs that will reduce the overall trigger pull - some.

Also, if you smooth the slots on both sides of the sear and the rails, that the sear rides on (without removing any metal), then you can smooth out some of the roughness in the trigger pull. This is really the limit of what I feel the non-professional should try to accomplish on the SKS trigger assembly without jeopardizing safe operation of the carbine. The trigger assembly is not the easiest to disassemble. Luckily with this project you do not need to completely take apart the entire trigger.

I chose my Albanian SKS as the subject SKS for this project. Here is a quote from the range report about my Albanian SKS -

"Out of all of my SKS, the Albanian has the weightiest and roughest trigger pull. I don't have a trigger pull gauge, but I would have to guess the pull would measure somewhere in the VERY high teens. If not higher. "

NOTE:

Please note that I am not a gunsmith nor am I an expert on the SKS trigger. What I demonstrate in the article worked for me and did no irreparable damage to my trigger. Others may say this is not all that you should do to better the trigger. I am not saying this is a "cure all". It will make a slight improvement in the trigger. On a carbine that is exceptionally bad to begin with, it may be an exceptional improvement. I am not promising anything. If you proceed with your own trigger, you proceed at your own risk.

Spring Kit Used in Article

RIFLE PERFORMANCE PAK - contains 1 each reduced power hammer spring rated at 27.5 pounds (original hammer springs range from 33-36 pounds) and 1 each reduced power sear/magazine latch spring to improve trigger for SKS 7.62mm Rifles, Chinese & Russian Variants.

Spring Type	Cost
RIFLE PERFORMANCE PAK Stock No. 30190	$9.00 + Shipping and Handling

Wolff Gun Spring Contact Information

W. C. Wolff Company
P.O. Box 458
Newtown Square, PA 19073-0458
United States of America

Toll Free.: 800-545-0077 (US & Canada)
Phone....: 610-359-9600
Fax........: 610-359-9496

Email Addresses:

Technical Assistance,
Application Issues & Problems: tech@gunsprings.com

Order Problems, Non-Technical Issues
& General Information: mail@gunsprings.com

Web Site Address:
http://www.gunsprings.com/

MANUFACTURER'S CAUTIONS

ALWAYS BE CERTAIN THAT YOUR FIREARM IS UNLOADED BEFORE WORKING ON OR CLEANING IT.

Immediately after installing any Wolff Gun Spring, or any spring, in any type of firearm that imparts power to a hammer(s), striker(s) or firing pin(s), as the case may be, with the firearm UNLOADED and without any trigger contact, actuate the firearm several times in a vigorous manner to make certain that the hammer(s), striker(s) or firing pin(s) are securely retained in the cocked position prior to let-off. Also, actuate the safety to determine that it is working properly. If during these tests, the hammer(s), striker(s), or firing pin(s) should fail or be released without trigger contact, or the safety does not work properly, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LOAD OR FIRE THE FIREARM until corrective repairs are made. If any doubts ever exist concerning the safe operation of your firearm(s), consult your local Gunsmith. The above procedure also applies where recoil, bolt or action springs have been installed as well as with any spring replacement.

NOTE: Always wear high-quality safety eyeglasses when installing or fitting Wolff Gun Springs, or any springs, to prevent eye injury. High-quality safety eyeglasses should be used when shooting any firearm. DO NOT use ammunition exceeding standard factory pressure levels.

NOTE: The use of any after market product in your firearm may limit or void the manufactures warranty.

WARNING - Failure to follow this procedure may result in accidental discharge, firearm damage and serious bodily injury. Always be certain that your firearm is functioning properly before use.

Surplusrifle.com's Site Disclaimer

Painting My Nails

You ask, "Getting in touch with my feminine side?"

No, just marking the new springs with a touch of bright nail polish. I am doing this because in the past I have had springs roll around on the table and get mixed up. This way I can easily differentiate between which is the old spring and which is the new spring. Also, if I drop it on a dark floor, it stands out a little better.

Losing Weight

Make sure the carbine is not loaded. Pull the bolt handle back and cock the carbine. Open the magazine and let the bolt slide closed. Set the safety catch to safe.

Using a punch or screwdriver, push the release at the rear of the trigger guard. Remove the trigger assembly and set the carbine aside.

The first area we are going to focus on is the front of the trigger assembly. The front has the latch stop pin, sear spring, and sear as pointed out in figure 5.

I included figure 6 because I thought that not everyone has two or more SKS to compare trigger assemblies to when you are having a difficult time reassembling the parts. At least this way you will have a large picture reference.

I tried a long time ago removing the latch stop pin at the front of the trigger assembly and had a difficult time doing it. My dad was visiting recently and told me that when you are having a hard time removing a pin, either put machine oil on all exposed areas of the pin and surrounding metal or place bee's wax in the same fashion. Both help the pin move against the metal and reduce friction. I know this seems like a no brainer, but it really helps.

With a couple of taps the pin came out. No funny story to tell you about how many hours it took to accomplish. I was thrilled to say the least. I was able to leave a small portion of the pin in one side of the trigger assembly (as shown in figure 9 below).

Remove the magazine cover catch and sear/catch spring. I then took a Norton Hard Arkansas Triangle Stone 3x1/4" Ultra Fine and smoothed the inside slots on both sides of the sear (as shown in figure 11 below) and on the top and bottom of the rails that the sear travels upon (as shown in figure 12 below). I suppose you could use a fine grit sand paper or steal wool also. I would not recommend using a file or rotary tool as you could easily remove metal which could adversely effect the function of the sear.

After you finished smoothing the sear and rails wipe both clean. Before you replace the sear place a small film of gun grease on both slots located on either side of the sear. Return the sear to the rails

Next, place the NEW sear/catch spring and the magazine cover catch on its rails (as shown in figure 14). If you have left the latch stop pin installed on one side of the trigger assembly, you will be able to hold the magazine cover catch depressed with one hand.

Place a small amount of machine oil on the surfaces of the pin before tapping back into the trigger assembly. Then you will be able to lay the assembly down and tap the pin back into place without the use of a punch or another set of hands.

Make sure you place the pin with an equal amount extended on both sides (as shown in figure 16).

CAUTION

Please take caution when releasing the hammer as it is under great pressure and will hurt like a dickens if you release it on your hand. This is kind of like "Garand Thumb", you will only do it once.

Next you need to take a screw driver or punch (what ever it takes to keep your hand out of the path of the hammer when it is released) and press down on the disconnector (as shown in figure 17).

While pressing down on the disconnector, simultaneously pull the trigger. You may need to play with the position of the disconnector before you get the hammer to release.

Once the hammer has been released, you can remove the hammer and strut. Place a punch at the very front of the hammer (as shown in figure 19). Then while using shear brute strength, press the hammer to the rear

and compress the hammer spring. When far enough compressed and the hammer's trunnions clear the guides it normally sits in, you will be able to slide the hammer upwards and remove it (as shown in figure 21).

Remove the old hammer spring from the hammer strut and set it aside.

Install the new hammer spring over the strut.

Next, I found reinstalling the hammer and strut is easier without using a punch. Place the pointed part of the strut through the rear ring of the disconnector. Using your hand, compress the hammer spring by pushing very firmly back on the hammer.

Eventually you will be able to get the trunnions on the base of the hammer back into the guides (as shown in figure 25).

Re-cock the hammer (as shown in figure 26). That is pretty much the completed modifications to the SKS trigger assembly.

Flip the safety catch to safe and return the trigger assembly to the carbine.

Figure 28 shows the assembled carbine. Make sure you test the carbine (WHILE UNLOADED) thoroughly:

Make sure the safety works;
Make sure the hammer functions properly;
Make sure that when you cycle the bolt that the hammer is pulled back and held in place and does not automatically release on its on;
I really suggest playing with the trigger and safety repeatedly and make sure everything is working like expected. Only when you are sure everything is ship shape, should you proceed to the range for a live ammo test.

A Visit to the Range

Well, there was a noticeable improvement. The trigger was considerably lighter and was somewhat smoother in operation and function. But, the proof is in the pudding! So I headed out to the range to see what she could do.

I have included before and after pictures. The target in figure 30 was an average target of fifteen shots at 50 yards prior to the trigger work. Figure 31's target was the average target I was able to produce at the same distance after the trigger work. I found accuracy was better, as I was not jerking the bumper off of my truck anymore while pulling the trigger. I was finally shooting an SKS!

Oh, the picture of the tomatoes? My daughter helped me take the photos and I have to guess she took a picture of one of our tomato plants outside while she was waiting for me to figure out what I was doing while doing the trigger work. When I ran the scripts in Photoshop that I wrote, it must have just figured this was one for the article.

Who am I to argue?

jlm;