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Replacing the CZ Model 52 Firing Pin
 
Article by: Jamie Mangrum
 

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When I was at the Reno Big Show in November I decided that I wanted to turn my M1A Standard into a sniper rifle. Nothing permanent, just a simple bolt on mount and a nice budget priced scope. Little did I know that I was in for such an adventure and would learn as much as I did. I only had about $150 to work with so I was going to have to shop for bargains. I looked around the show but could not find the bargains I wanted. I did get to see the scope I wanted as well as the scope mount.

All the goodies ready to go!

The scope I chose is a BSA Mil-Dot Rifle Scope 8-32x40mm. I know, I know - no professional sniper would put a BSA scope on a sniper rifle, but I never said I was a professional sniper. I just wanted a toy and in the spirit of Surplusrifle.com and being cheap this is the scope I chose. It is a very nice scope for the miniscule price of just under $100 (from MidwayUSA). I could have gone one step fancier by opting for an illuminated reticle, but I can barely manage to keep the batteries in my camera charged. I didn't expect that I would do any better with a scope.
Point the rifle in a safe direction and make certain that it is unloaded.
 

Mil-Dot = Military?

The "Mil" in "Mil-Dot" does not stand for "Military"; it stands for "milliradian." The radian is a unitless measure which is equivalent, in use, to degrees. It tells you how far around a circle you have gone. 2 PI radians = 360 degrees. Using 3.14 as the value of PI, 6.28 radians take you all the way around a circle. Using a cartesian coordinate system, you can use "x"- and "y"-values to define any point on the plane. Radians are used in a coordinate system called "polar coordinates." A point on the plane is defined, in the polar coordinate system, using the radian and the radius. The radian defines the amount of rotation and the radius gives the distance from the origin (in a negative or positive direction).

The radian is another measurement of rotation (the degree/minute/second-system being the first). This is the system used in the mil-dot reticle. We use the same equation that we used before, but, instead of your calculator being in "degree" mode, switch it to "radian" mode. One milliradian = 1/1000 (.001) radians. So, type .001 into your calculator and hit the "tangent" button. Then multiply this by "distance to the target." Finally, multiply this by 36 to get inches subtended at the given distance. With the calculator in "radian" mode, type: tangent(.001)*100*36 = 3.6000012"

So, one milliradian is just over 3.6 inches at 100 yards. If we extrapolate, two milliradians equal about 6 feet at one-thousand yards.
Source: http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/MilDot_MOA.asp

Point-of-fact: I own a red dot scope for a .22 lr pistol. I always forget and leave it turned on when I put it away. It never fails that the next time I want use it, and drive all the way out to the range, the thing is dead.

I take full responsibility for this shortcoming as I should be intelligent and responsible enough to turn a switch to the off position when I am done playing with my toys. At least that is what my dad used to tell me.

 

Rotate the rear sight's elevation knob and lower the sight to 0. Turn the rifle over and remove the trigger assembly.

On another yet related topic:

Have you used the Read the Review(s) function that MidwayUSA now offers for every single item that they sell?

On every web page that lists a product for sale you will also find product rating information that is contributed by none other than YOU and I.

If you have something positive or negative to say about a specific product that you have purchased there are links so you can contribute comments.

Remove the barrel and receiver from the stock.

The theory is that you can let others benefit from your experience. 

I think the idea is really great. It helped me decide whether or not to purchase the scope that I purchased from them for this very project.

Most folks rated the scope 4 out of 5 stars and gave great comments. Only two folks had problems, but overall it appears as though the scope is a pretty good deal for the price.

Drive out pin holding in stripper guide.

Example:

Average Customer Rating:Above Average RatingAbove Average RatingAbove Average RatingAbove Average Rating
Read the Review(s)
Used this product? Rate It

Back to the Project

The M1A/M14 scope mount that I chose (John Masen M1A/M14 Late Model Scope Mount) is made by John Masen. I did my research and read the reviews in both message forums and MidwayUSA and finally decided that it seemed to be a quality enough item to take a chance on.

Drive the clip guide off of the receiver from right to left.

The price was just right at only $27.99.  The suggested retail and what you will pay on the John Masen website is $49.99. Both the scope and mount are perfect for the budget minded sniper. I know this is kind of an oxymoron when we are talking about mounting a scope on a $1300 rifle.

Think of it this way: It took so long and so many resources to purchase my M1A in the first place that all I can afford to spend is a $150.

Figure 7 shows the receiver after removing the clip guide.

My pockets are empty. So to top it all off I purchased a set of Tasco 1" Weaver-Style Rings for less than $8. This would turn out to be an action that I would later come to regret.

I found that the new clip guide needed some filing to fit properly.

 
Once I had performed some minor filing I was able to slide the new clip guide's dovetail onto the receiver.
 
The instructions state to use a 3/32" punch to insert in the pin hole in the new clip guide to ensure alignment with hole in receiver. I did not have one so I substituted an allen wrench that fit.
 

Tap in the retaining pin.

Normally when I am installing a scope it is on a bolt action rifle.

You can quickly bore sight the typical bolt action rifle before going out to the range with the following steps:

1) Place the rifle in a secure and padded gun vise and lock it down so it will not move.

2) Find an area were you can set up a target (even an x on a piece of paper) hanging on the wall. The target needs to be at least 15 feet away from the barrel's end and the center of the target placed at the same level/height as the muzzle.      
Figure 12 shows the top of the pin flush with top of new clip guide.
3) Point the rifle at the target.

4) Remove the bolt.

5) Peer down the barrel through the receiver and align the center of the bore so it is directly over the x (the center of the target).

6) Don't move the rifle at all.

7) Now peer through the scope and align the mount and/or scope until the windage is directly in line with the center of the target. The elevation should just be in the general area.

 

Figure 13 shows me deviating from the supplied instructions. I did not remove the thumbscrew lock nut and bushing from the rear of the mount. Instead I jumped forward to installing the front thumbscrew and hand tightening it. You cannot properly adjust the bushing until the scope is mounted as I will explain later in the story.

8) Look through the barrel again to make sure it is still in alignment and then check the scope again.

9) Now go to the range. You will have to make minor windage adjustments and some elevation adjustments, but you should be in the ball park and not waste a lot of ammo.

Guess what? You cannot perform this same process on an M1A rifle. I had scoped a couple of other semi-auto rifles with success, but I guess I was lucky.

Next I installed the rear thumbscrew but did not tighten it.

I went out to the range and tried to sight in the scope. I shot cartridge after cartridge and I found that the scope mount's large thumbscrews kept becoming loose. Even after repeatedly tightening them.

Disgusted, I packed up and went home.

Next, I purchased some semi-permanent loctite that works well at high temperatures and applied this to all of the mount's screws. This took care of the  thumbscrews loosening, but I still had not resolved my first problem of zeroing in the scope.

 

I then made sure the guides on the back of the mount were aligned with the channels in the receiver and tightened the front thumbscrew.
 

Loctite Threadlockers


Invented by Henkel Loctite as a revolutionary method to lock and seal threaded fasteners, LoctiteŽ Liquid Threadlockers have found wide acceptance in a range of applications - from delicate electronic components to heavy construction equipment. LoctiteŽ Threadlockers are available in varying viscosities and strengths for virtually any application, including exposure to extreme environments.

 

I returned to the range the next weekend and attempted to sight in the scope again. I found I had made an error with the positioning of the thumbscrew lock nut and bushing. This caused the windage of the scope mount to be really off and the scope was not capable of compensating for the mistake. I was faced with having to remove the thumbscrew and readjust everything.

I could almost hear a voice in my head saying "Didn't put enough dirt down. Saw it.....right off" (Just for the mountain men out there - a Jeremiah Johnson Movie Reference).

I went ahead and installed the receiver back into the stock.

I was just about to pack up again and head home. A very nice range officer allowed me to use the club's gun vice and my own tools to readjust and relock down the thumbscrews. Loctite on my fingertips and a crooked smile on my face: Yahoo! I thought that I was back in business! 

After getting my rounds to finally place on paper again and then just when I was starting to zero the scope suddenly I was no longer on the paper.

What the hell happened this time?

Next I reinstalled the trigger assembly and locked it down.
The loctite had not setup and the thumbscrews became loose again. Impatience and my own stupidity had screwed me over again. I learned another important lesson. Make sure you allow the loctite time to cure or it does not work. 

To top it all off I stripped out the cheap allen screws supplied with the scope rings I was using.

Rule of thumb: Don't use scope rings that cost less than the cost of the gas that you will expend driving to the range.

 

I positioned my first set of rings that I purchased and hand tightened them down.
I could have cried! For all you know I probably did. It is a long drive home, you know. 

Completely disillusioned and disheartened, I went home and removed the scope. I installed it  on a bolt action Savage rifle I had not shot in years. I vowed never to touch this project ever again!

I was content with my decision and was moving onto to something else. This project would soon be behind me and pushed from my memories.

I positioned the scope.

I know you all think that every single project we produce for Surplusrifle.com is successful and actually makes it to being published.  No way! Trust me!

I have several Island of Doctor Moreau projects that I have turned out to pasture, out into the garage. I am reminded of them every time I build up enough confidence to go out into the wild uncharted regions of the garage known only to my family as the dark corner.

 

I installed the upper halves of the scope rings.

Every once and a while I look over and peer into the darkness and yell out  - What IS the law? and I can swear I hear answered back in a very animal like guttural voice - To not embarrass Jamie on the Surplusrifle.com website.

That IS the law!

I was so disheartened the last time I came home from the range with the scoped M1A,  I had committed the cardinal sin:

I had not cleaned my rifle.

Next I installed the allen screws in the rings.

My better nature finally won me over and I went to the safe and took out the M1A and proceeded to clean it.

As I cleaned I noticed the rifle still had the scope mount's clip guide installed and I mulled over the idea of removing it and reinstalling the original guide.

This is when the mail came. Like a lightening bolt hitting me I was looking at my MidwayUSA catalog and right in the first couple pages was an ad for a Leupold magnetic bore sighter.

Next I tightened the allen screws.

Several days passed. I thought...and I thought. Still the scope mount clip guide was on the rifle. I had to make a decision.

I read about bore sighting tools. A little hobby of mine and also a way that I can easily put myself to sleep at night. Through all of my extensive nocturnal studies I have discovered that bore sighting is kind of a controversial topic. Some folks swear by bore sighters and some folks swear at bore sighters and the people that use them.

And....tadaa! The almost finished job or so I thought.

Prior to this project I really did not fall into either category. I was a neutral party that kind of snickered at the intense loyalties either side had. Reading message forums on this subject was like sitting in a barber shop listening to men talk during election years about their favorite candidate.

I was waiting for either one side to win the conflict or the technology to become so fantastic that the war just ceased.

 

Leupold Magnetic Bore Sighting Tool

I finally broke down and purchased a magnetic bore sighter. It was less than $50 and in my opinion and I guess I am now picking a side - it was well worth it. I wish I had bought the dang thing the first time around. I went to a friends store and purchased a good set of scope rings for around $20 and set off for home with renewed vigor and determination. After setting up everything in my workshop, this time I followed the instructions correctly stopping to use the bore sighter to adjust the thumbscrew lock nut and bushing and the scope.

Leupold Magnetic Bore Sighting Tool mounted on front of M1A rifle
All the screws had loctite and I allowed the appropriate amount of time for the threadlocker to cure and do its job.

The next time I went to the range I was able to get on the paper quickly and every thing stayed locked in place while I shot my little heart out.

I was finally able to produce  groups that were what I expected to achieve with this setup.

I feel as though I have made it through some rights of passage type of event and now am the better for it.

View of Leupold Magnetic Bore Sighting Tool through scope. I tilted the camera the scope and rifle were not skewed as shown in figure 26.

The journey that started out with the intention of only being enough material for a short little article on mounting a no-gunsmith mount on an M1A rifle had taken almost a month to complete and had gone almost $100 over budget when you count the bore sighter, gas, and ammo.

Would I do it all over again?

Yes, I would perform a condensed version of my adventure only including the parts that were successful.

 
The scoped animal at the range on one of the many visits during this project.
I learned to not assume that a project is going to be simple.

Plan out your projects and make sure you take everything into consideration. Don't be complacent or cocky like I was when I approached this project. Brother, I will tell you that it is the simple little projects that will just knock the cockiness right out of you. I can attest to this. I had something knocked out me, repeatedly.

You are reading the words of a humbled man.

Yeah, right!

Five shot group at 100 yards.

Am I pleased with the mount and scope? Yes, I think the setup is quite the bargain for what I paid for it in dollars (and not sweat and aggravation - but that was my own fault).

Do I think it is one mean looking rifle now?

Hell yes! My M1A is the baddest looking mofo in the school yard. He is ready to drop out of a Blackhawk helicopter in Mogadishu (he better be for all of the loctite I poured over the thumbscrews) or travel the mountains in Afghanistan.

Don't get me started.....

Five shot group at 100 yards.

 
jlm;)
 

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