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| Article by: Jamie
Mangrum |
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When I was at the Reno
Big Show in November I decided that I wanted to
turn my M1A Standard into a sniper rifle. Nothing
permanent, just a simple bolt on mount and a nice
budget priced scope. Little did I know that I was
in for such an adventure and would learn as much
as I did. I only had about $150 to work with so
I was going to have to shop for bargains. I looked
around the show but could not find the bargains
I wanted. I did get to see the scope I wanted
as well as the scope mount. |
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All the goodies ready to go!
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| The scope I chose is
a
BSA Mil-Dot Rifle Scope 8-32x40mm. I know,
I know - no professional sniper would put a BSA
scope on a sniper rifle, but I never said I was
a professional sniper. I just wanted a toy and in
the spirit of Surplusrifle.com and being cheap this
is the scope I chose. It is a very nice scope for the miniscule price
of just under $100 (from MidwayUSA). I could have gone one step fancier
by opting for an illuminated reticle, but I can barely
manage to keep the batteries in my camera charged. I didn't expect that I would do any better with
a scope. |
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Point the rifle
in a safe direction and make certain that it is
unloaded. |
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Mil-Dot
= Military?
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The "Mil"
in "Mil-Dot" does not stand for "Military"; it stands
for "milliradian." The radian is a unitless measure
which is equivalent, in use, to degrees. It tells
you how far around a circle you have gone. 2 PI
radians = 360 degrees. Using 3.14 as the value of
PI, 6.28 radians take you all the way around a circle.
Using a cartesian coordinate system, you can use
"x"- and "y"-values to define any point on the plane.
Radians are used in a coordinate system called "polar
coordinates." A point on the plane is defined, in
the polar coordinate system, using the radian and
the radius. The radian defines the amount of rotation
and the radius gives the distance from the origin
(in a negative or positive direction).
The radian is another measurement of rotation (the
degree/minute/second-system being the first).
This is the system used in the mil-dot reticle.
We use the same equation that we used before, but,
instead of your calculator being in "degree" mode,
switch it to "radian" mode. One milliradian = 1/1000
(.001) radians. So, type .001 into your calculator
and hit the "tangent" button. Then multiply this
by "distance to the target." Finally, multiply this
by 36 to get inches subtended at the given distance.
With the calculator in "radian" mode, type: tangent(.001)*100*36
= 3.6000012"
So, one milliradian is just over 3.6 inches at 100
yards. If we extrapolate, two milliradians equal
about 6 feet at one-thousand yards. |
| Source:
http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/MilDot_MOA.asp |
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Point-of-fact: I own a red dot scope
for a .22 lr pistol. I always forget and leave
it turned on when I put it away. It never fails
that the next time I want use it, and drive all the
way out to the range, the thing is dead.
I take full responsibility for this shortcoming
as I should be intelligent and responsible enough
to turn a switch to the off position when
I am done playing with my toys. At least that is
what my dad used to tell me.
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Rotate the rear
sight's elevation knob and lower the sight to 0.
Turn the rifle over and remove the trigger assembly.
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On another yet related topic:
Have you used the
Read the Review(s) function that MidwayUSA
now offers for every single item that they sell?
On every web page that lists a product for sale you
will also find product rating information that is
contributed by none other than YOU and I.
If you have
something positive or negative to say about a specific
product that you have purchased there are links
so you can contribute comments.
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Remove the barrel
and receiver from the stock.
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The theory is that you can let others benefit
from your experience.
I
think the idea is really great. It helped me decide whether
or not to purchase the scope that I purchased
from them for
this very project.
Most folks rated the scope 4 out of
5 stars and gave great comments. Only two folks
had problems, but overall it appears as though the
scope is a pretty good deal for the price.
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Drive out pin holding in stripper guide.
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Example:
Average Customer Rating:  
Read the Review(s)
Used this product?
Rate It
Back to the Project
The M1A/M14 scope mount that I chose (John
Masen M1A/M14 Late Model Scope Mount) is
made by
John Masen. I did my research and read
the reviews in both message forums and MidwayUSA
and finally decided that it seemed to be a quality
enough item to take a chance on.
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Drive the clip guide off of the receiver from
right to left.
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The price was just right at only $27.99.
The suggested retail and what you will pay on
the
John Masen website is $49.99.
Both the scope and mount are perfect for the
budget minded sniper. I know this is kind of an
oxymoron when we are talking about mounting a
scope on a $1300 rifle.
Think of it this way: It took so long and so
many resources to purchase my M1A in the first
place that all I can afford to spend is a $150. |
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Figure 7 shows the receiver after removing the
clip guide.
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My pockets are empty. So to top it all off I
purchased a set of
Tasco 1" Weaver-Style Rings for less than
$8. This would turn out to be an action that I would
later come to regret. |
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I found that the new clip guide needed some filing
to fit properly.
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Once I had performed
some minor filing I was able to slide the new clip
guide's dovetail onto the receiver. |
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The instructions
state to use a 3/32" punch to insert in the pin
hole in the new clip guide to ensure alignment with
hole in receiver. I did not have one so I substituted
an allen wrench that fit. |
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Tap in the retaining pin.
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| Normally
when I am installing a scope it is on a bolt action
rifle.
You can quickly bore sight the typical bolt action
rifle before going out to the range with the following
steps:
1) Place the rifle in a secure and padded
gun vise and lock it down so it will not move.
2) Find an area were you can set up a target
(even an x on a piece of paper) hanging
on the wall. The target needs to be at least 15
feet away from the barrel's end and the
center of the target placed at the same
level/height as the muzzle. |
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Figure 12 shows
the top of the pin flush with top of new clip guide. |
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3) Point the rifle at the target. 4)
Remove the bolt.
5) Peer down the barrel through the receiver
and align the center of the bore so it is
directly over the x (the center
of the target).
6) Don't move the rifle at all.
7) Now peer through the scope and align
the mount and/or scope until the windage is directly
in line with the center of the target. The elevation
should just be in the general area.
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Figure 13 shows
me deviating from the supplied instructions. I did
not remove the thumbscrew lock nut and bushing from
the rear of the mount. Instead I jumped forward
to installing the front thumbscrew and hand tightening
it. You cannot properly adjust the bushing until
the scope is mounted as I will explain later in
the story. |
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8) Look through the barrel again to make
sure it is still in alignment and then check the
scope again.
9) Now go to the range. You will have
to make minor windage adjustments and some elevation
adjustments, but you should be in the ball park
and not waste a lot of ammo.
Guess what? You cannot perform this same
process on an M1A rifle. I had scoped a couple of
other semi-auto rifles with success, but I guess
I was lucky. |
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Next I installed
the rear thumbscrew but did not tighten it.
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I went out to the range and tried to sight in
the scope. I shot cartridge after cartridge
and I found that the scope mount's large thumbscrews kept becoming
loose. Even after repeatedly tightening them.
Disgusted, I packed up and went home.
Next, I purchased some semi-permanent loctite
that works well at high temperatures and applied
this to all of the mount's screws. This took care
of the thumbscrews loosening, but I still
had not resolved my first problem of zeroing in
the scope.
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I then made sure
the guides on the back of the mount were aligned
with the channels in the receiver and tightened
the front thumbscrew. |
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Loctite Threadlockers
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Invented by Henkel Loctite as a revolutionary
method to lock and seal threaded fasteners,
LoctiteŽ Liquid Threadlockers have found
wide acceptance in a range of applications
- from delicate electronic components to
heavy construction equipment. LoctiteŽ Threadlockers
are available in varying viscosities and
strengths for virtually any application,
including exposure to extreme environments.
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I returned to the range the next weekend and
attempted to sight in the scope again. I found I
had made an error with the positioning of the thumbscrew
lock nut and bushing. This caused the windage of
the scope mount to
be really off and the scope was not capable of compensating
for the mistake. I was faced with having to remove
the thumbscrew and readjust everything.
I could almost hear a voice in my head saying
"Didn't put enough dirt down. Saw it.....right off"
(Just for the mountain men out there - a Jeremiah Johnson Movie Reference).
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I went ahead and
installed the receiver back into the stock.
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I was just about to pack up again and head home.
A very nice range officer allowed me to use the
club's gun vice and my own tools to readjust and
relock down the thumbscrews. Loctite on my fingertips
and a crooked smile on my face: Yahoo! I thought
that I was back in business!
After getting my rounds to finally place on paper
again and then just when I was starting to zero
the scope suddenly I was no longer on the paper.
What the hell happened this time?
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Next I reinstalled
the trigger assembly and locked it down. |
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The loctite had not
setup and the thumbscrews became loose again. Impatience
and my own stupidity had screwed me over again.
I learned another important lesson. Make sure you
allow the loctite time to cure or it does not work.
To top it all off I stripped out the cheap allen
screws supplied with the scope rings I was using.
Rule of thumb: Don't use scope rings that
cost less than the cost of the gas that you will
expend driving to the range.
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I positioned my
first set of rings that I purchased and hand tightened
them down. |
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I could have cried!
For all you know I probably did. It is a long drive
home, you know.
Completely disillusioned and disheartened, I
went home and removed the scope. I installed it
on a bolt action Savage rifle I had not shot in
years. I vowed never to touch this project ever
again!
I was content with my decision and was moving
onto to something else. This project would soon
be behind me and pushed from my memories. |
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I positioned the scope.
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I know you all think that every single project
we produce for Surplusrifle.com is successful and
actually makes it to being published. No way!
Trust me!
I have several Island of Doctor Moreau
projects that I have turned out to pasture, out
into the garage. I am reminded of them every time
I build up enough confidence to go out into the
wild uncharted regions of the garage known only
to my family as the dark corner.
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I installed the upper halves of the scope rings.
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Every once and a while I look over and peer into
the darkness and yell out - What IS the
law? and I can swear I hear answered back in
a very animal like guttural voice - To not embarrass
Jamie on the Surplusrifle.com website.
That IS the law!
I was so
disheartened the last time I came home from the
range with the scoped M1A, I had committed
the cardinal sin:
I had not cleaned my rifle.
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Next I installed the allen screws in the rings.
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My better nature finally won me over and I went
to the safe and took out the M1A and proceeded to
clean it.
As I cleaned I noticed
the rifle still had the scope mount's clip guide
installed and I mulled over the idea of removing
it and reinstalling the original guide.
This is when the mail came. Like a lightening
bolt hitting me I was looking at my MidwayUSA catalog
and right in the first couple pages was an ad for
a Leupold magnetic bore sighter. |
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Next I tightened the allen screws.
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Several days passed. I thought...and I
thought. Still the scope mount clip guide was on
the rifle. I had to make a decision.
I read about bore sighting tools. A little hobby of mine and
also a way that I can easily
put myself to sleep at night. Through all of my
extensive nocturnal studies I have discovered
that bore sighting is kind of a
controversial topic.
Some folks swear by bore sighters and some folks
swear at bore sighters and the people that use them. |
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And....tadaa! The almost finished job or so I
thought.
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Prior to this
project I really did not fall
into either category. I was a neutral party that
kind of snickered at the intense loyalties
either side had.
Reading message forums on this subject was like
sitting in a barber shop listening to men talk
during election years about their favorite
candidate. I was waiting for either one
side to win the conflict or the technology to become
so fantastic that the war just ceased.
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Leupold Magnetic Bore Sighting Tool
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I finally broke down
and purchased a magnetic bore sighter. It was
less than $50 and in my opinion and I guess I am
now picking a side - it was well worth it. I
wish I had bought the dang thing the first time
around. I went to a friends store and purchased
a
good set of scope rings
for around $20 and set off for home with
renewed vigor and determination. After setting up
everything in my workshop, this time I followed the instructions
correctly stopping to use the bore sighter
to adjust the thumbscrew lock nut and bushing and
the scope.
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Leupold Magnetic
Bore Sighting Tool mounted on front of M1A rifle |
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loctite and I allowed the appropriate amount of
time for the threadlocker to cure and do its
job.
The next time I went to
the range I was able to get on the paper quickly and every thing
stayed locked in place while I shot my little heart
out.
I was finally able to produce groups that
were what I expected to achieve with this setup.
I feel as though I have made it through some rights
of passage type of event and now am the better
for it. |
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View of Leupold
Magnetic Bore Sighting Tool through scope. I tilted
the camera the scope and rifle were not skewed as
shown in figure 26. |
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The journey that started out with the
intention of only being enough material for a
short little article on mounting a no-gunsmith
mount on an M1A rifle had taken almost a month
to complete and had
gone almost $100 over budget when you count the
bore sighter, gas, and ammo.
Would I do it all over again?
Yes, I would perform
a condensed version of my adventure only including
the parts that were successful.
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The scoped animal
at the range on one of the many visits during this
project. |
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| I learned to not
assume that a project is going to be simple.
Plan out your projects and make sure you take
everything into consideration. Don't be
complacent or cocky like I was when I approached this
project. Brother, I will tell you that it is the
simple little projects that will just knock the
cockiness right out of you. I can attest to
this. I had something knocked out me,
repeatedly.
You are reading the words of a humbled man.
Yeah, right! |
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Five shot group at 100 yards.
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Am I pleased with the mount and scope? Yes, I
think the setup is quite the bargain for what I
paid for it in dollars (and not sweat and aggravation
- but that was my own fault).
Do I think it is one mean looking rifle now?
Hell yes! My M1A is the baddest looking mofo
in the school yard. He is ready to drop out of a
Blackhawk helicopter in Mogadishu (he better
be for all of the loctite I poured over the
thumbscrews) or travel the mountains in
Afghanistan.
Don't get me started.....
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Five shot group at 100 yards.
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| jlm;) |
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PDF Downloadable Version of Article
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