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Scoping the Enfield No. 4:
Cad Technik No-Gunsmith Scope Mount |
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In my opinion the
Enfield No. 4 is one of the finest military bolt action rifles
ever produced and on my top five list for accuracy. If I shoot a No.
4 with open micrometer adjustable sights then I feel that I already have a definitive edge over
other mil-surp rifles as the sights are just downright
exceptional.
To add a scope is almost unnecessary.
I
would rather poke out one of my eyes than drill and tap or
permanently modify one of my No. 4s. When I saw the
no-gunsmith, Cad Technik scope mount in the
Brownells catalog. I
thought - "heck, that fits the bill."
I really like the looks of
the No. 4 Mk 1 (T) sniper rifles and this mount somewhat
duplicates the look and feel of the mounts used. |
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FIGURE 1 Side View of Mount |
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Brownells Product
Description |
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No gunsmithing required
to put a scope on that Enfield. Attaches solidly to the receiver
using the ejector and safety screws. Quick detachable,
Weaver-style base is machined to extremely close tolerances for
precise return to zero. Installation requires no bolt
modification or rear sight removal. Leveling adjustments adapt
mount to a wide range of receivers; windage adjustments help
keep your scope reticle in the center of its range.
SPECS: Aluminum, black,
matte finish. Savage-built rifles and others using a flat
ejector spring require block-style spring. 3.9" (10cm) long.
Enfield Scope Mount $79.95 + S&H
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Manufacturer's Product
Description |
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Mechanical windage adjustment;
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Scope leveling system;
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Remove scope and scope rings
without loss of zero;
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Removal of micrometer sight not
required;
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Shoot with a scope without
altering your rifle.
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FIGURE 2 Top View of Mount |
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FIGURE 3 |
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Manufacturer Supplied Instructions |
| Remove the bolt. |
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FIGURE 4 |
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Manufacturer Supplied Instructions |
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Place rifle on its side with the
ejector screw and safety facing up. Remove the ejector
screw |
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FIGURE 5 |
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Manufacturer Supplied Instructions |
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Remove the safety screw without removing the safety
mechanism. Some rifle, most notably Savage made rifles,
have a flat safety spring instead of the more standard
block style. The flat safety spring must be changed to
the block style for proper safe operation of scope
mount. |
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FIGURE 6 Rear Sight Removed. |
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I discovered that after I followed the instructions literally
and tried to reinsert the bolt, I could not because the
scope mount held the rear sight down. It is necessary to lift
the rear sight to a complete vertical position to remove or
insert the bolt. No matter what I tried I could not insert or
remove the bolt if I left the rear sight in installed. I ended up removing the
mount and removing the rear sight. Then I replaced the mount and
was able to proceed. I think if you plan on leaving the mount on
the rifle for a period of time and want to clean it without
removing the scope, removing the rear sight is the best
approach.
Conclusion: The claim that the rear sight does
not have to be removed to install the mount is very true, but
good luck getting the bolt in or out without lifting the rear
sight.
This is not a bad thing as the rear sight is easy to
remove. The sight is held in place by a retaining pin that is
secured by an even smaller pin. The pin holding the rear sights
retaining pin is actually easy to remove if you use a good
drift punch and tap it upward until it can be pulled out
with a pair of locking pliers. Reinstalling the pin is easier
still as all you do is tap it back into place.
Note:
Tension of the rear sight is supplied by a plunger and
spring
that will fly out if you do not gradually lift the sight and
allow the spring to expand slowly. |
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FIGURE 7 All of the Removed Parts Safely
Stored in a Zip-Lock Bag |
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FIGURE 8 Tightening the New Ejector Screw |
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Manufacturer Supplied Instructions |
| Attach the mount base using the
new ejector screw and the new safety screw. The supplied
neoprene washer is for the safety screw. |
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The instructions don't say how to install the neoprene washer. I examined
everything and made the assumption it would work best between
the mount and the safety spring. This way the safety could move
freely without binding on the metal mount. |
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FIGURE 9 |
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FIGURE 10 |
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Manufacturer Supplied Instructions |
| Install bolt and check for free
and normal range of motion for the bolt. Chamber and
eject a round to verify that the ejector screw is set
properly. |
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There are no more instructions supplied with the mount. I think
it would be nice if they supplied steps for adjusting the
"mechanical windage" and "scope leveling" features. I found I
had to figure this one out through trial and error. The two screws
on top of the weaver rail will allow for raising and lowering
the front and back of the rail as well as some horizontal
movement.
Note: Make sure you really tighten/lock down
the screws on the rail once you have them set. It is very
difficult and a pain to find out you have to completely remove
the scope to retighten them if you have overlooked this or
forgotten, as I will describe later in the article.
The only negative I found with the mount is the limited
instructions supplied. |
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FIGURE 11 Installing Front Scope Ring |
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FIGURE 12 Installing Rear Scope Ring |
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FIGURE 13 Installing Scope |
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FIGURE 14 Completed Job |
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The mount is very solid and all in all it is a very attractive
setup. I installed a standard Simmons 3x9 variable power scope
with pair of
Butler Creek Flip-Open Scope Covers. |
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FIGURE 15 |
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I had some trouble zeroing in the scope when I first got to the
range. First the windage was bottomed out and could not move any
further to the left. I fiddled around with the adjustments on
the mount and
it started to come in and I was printing on paper. Then all of a
sudden I could not even hit the target. When I touched the scope
I discovered that one of the two adjustment, hex screws on
the weaver rail had come completely loose and the scope was
freely moving from right to left and back again. I had to
completely disassemble the rig and retighten everything back
down. It was pretty warm outside and I was getting a little warm inside
because of my stupidity. I did not blame the mount, just my own
fault for overlooking tightening the two screws on the rail
during assembly. Once I had
accomplished this and reassembled everything, I was back in the
running and punching holes in the paper.
Note: Make sure you
take plenty of loaded cartridges with you to the range when
sighting in a new scope mount and scope. By the time I had
discovered my mistake I had already fired off twenty rounds. |
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FIGURE 16 Dialing in the Scope |
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I was finally able to get the windage set and was close on the
elevation at 50 yards, so I moved the target out to 100. When
sighting in a new scope, I start at closer distances and then
gradually move it out in range as I dial in the settings.
Another trick I use to sight in a scope is to pick a dirt
clod on the earthen burm behind the target. When I fire, I will see
the dirt kicked up where the bullet impacts easily through the
scope. Then I make gradual adjustments until I feel comfortable
moving to the paper.
Important Safety Note: Don't aim at
a rock. If you actually hit it, it could cause the bullet to be
deflected and ricochet in an unsafe direction. The burm is
designed to absorb your shots and is safe to aim at.
One other trick is kind of a poor man's bore sighting
exercise. In a semi-dark room, remove the bolt of the rifle and
take a
Mini-Maglite and insert it up against the barrel's chamber
inside the receiver.
The Maglite produces a very intense, concentrated, and bright
beam of light that is almost laser like but much less in cost. Project the light
emitted from the bore onto the wall. View the lighted spot on
the wall through the scope and adjust the windage until it is
over the center of the lit circle. This will more times than not
bring you very close and cut down the amount of rounds required
to sight the scope in at the range. |
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FIGURE 17 - 5 Shots at 100 yards |
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I shot another forty rounds at 100 yards and was very pleased
with my shooting. Once I dialed in the elevation I was able to
produce some impressive groups. My best is displayed in figure
17. I would say that at 100 yards the accuracy of the scoped
No. 4 was only fairly better than the micrometer aperture sights
found on my rifle. I usually don't shoot much over 100 yards but feel
inclined to give a try later out at a distance of 300 yards with the scope
installed. I feel
this will really test out the rig as I cannot shoot very
accurately out at those distances.
I am very pleased with the mount and my shooting with the
scoped No. 4. |
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FIGURE 18 |
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Ethics and Principles of Making Permanent
Modifications to Mil-surp Firearms |
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Figure 18 shows my No. 4 after removing the scope and
mount. My daughter timed me. A total of five minutes and my No.
4 was back in its original condition and the Cad Technik no-gunsmith
scope mount was packed away safely. I never would have attached
the mount to the rifle to begin with if I could not put the rifle back
into its intended configuration. Some rifles I don't feel a bit
guilty mucking around with them; something like a Mosin m44
carbine or a Yugo 24/47 Mauser where there are thousands upon
thousands available for lunch money and I have a half a dozen to
begin with. But take an Enfield No.4, a Krag, a Swede, or a
Garand, and I would feel uneasy and down right evil drilling and
tapping into them. I just recently picked up a Norwegian Krag
and I have got to tell you that it has the most beautiful wood
stock that I have ever seen in my entire life on anything and I
include furniture in my comparison. They really knew how to
build rifles back then! I would die before I let someone touch
it. The Krags are so damned difficult to find today and the ones
you do find are expensive as hell. The reason is because so many
were sporterized into hunting rifles in the early part of the
twentieth century.
I am not preaching to you that you should never modify your
rifles. Heck, they are your firearms and you can do what ever
you like with them. That is the beauty of living in America:
Freedom.
Just remember that some rifles can produce an almost religious
experience. Your endorphins flow when you work the bolt, feel
the silky
smoothness of the wood stock, contemplate the history, or just see how well they shoot at
the range. If you own even one of these rifles then you know
exactly what I mean. These are
the keepers. The ones that you leave exactly the way you find
them, never to change anything. They are the ones that have so much history you can actually smell
it. As James Earl Jones, as Terence Mann, in Field of Dreams said,
“The memories will be so thick they'll have to brush them away
from their faces.”
That is what I am talking about.jlm;) |