1)
Figure 1 shows the U.S. Army Model 1917
pistol.
2) Point the
pistol in a safe direction. Pull back the
cylinder latch and swing out the cylinder to
make certain the pistol is unloaded and safe
to work with.
3) Unscrew
the grip screw.
4) Remove
the grip screw.
5) Remove
the left grip panel.
6) Remove
the right grip panel.
7) Unscrew
the crane screw.
8) Remove
the crane lock and crane screw.
9) Swing the
cylinder out.
10) Slide
the crane forward and out of the pistol
frame.
11) Unscrew
the ejector rod head.
12) Remove the ejector rod head.
13) While holding the cylinder in one hand,
push the ejector rod forward so the ratchet
is extended above the cylinder.
Use a tape wrapped needle nose pliers to
start unscrewing the ratchet counter
clockwise.
14) Once loose enough rotate the ratchet
counter clockwise.
15) Remove the ratchet.
16) Remove the cylinder arbor from the
cylinder.
17) You will damage the crane bushing if you
attempt to remove it without a crane bushing
tool.
Brownells now makes a
Colt crane bushing tool that will fit
the 1917 pistol. They do not list that it
will fit the 1917 pistol but I guarantee
that it fits perfectly.
18) Use the large end of the crane bushing
tool and place the small protrusions into
the notches in the crane bushing.
19) Turn the wrench counter clockwise.
20) Remove the crane bushing.
21) Remove the ejector rod and spring from
the cylinder arbor.
22) Separate the spring from the ejector
rod.
23) Unscrew the forward side plate screw.
24) Remove the forward side plate screw.
25) Unscrew the rear side plate screw.
26) Remove the rear side plate screw.
27) It is best to old the pistol with the
side panel facing down and then give the
right side of the pistol a whack with a non
marring tool like a rubber mallet. If this
does not work then carefully lift it out as
shown in figure 27. Lift out and
remove the side plate. Do not force it.
28) Remove the cylinder latch from the side
panel.
29) Remove the cylinder latch spring from
the side plate.
30) Using non-marring pliers compress the
main spring. Swing the hammer stirrup so it
disconnects from the main spring.
31) Lift out the cylinder hand.
32) Punch out the rebound lever pin.
33) Remove the rebound lever pin.
34) Slide out the rebound lever.
35) Pivot the hammer to the rear.
36) Lift out the hammer.
37) Punch out the strut pin.
38) Remove the strut pin.
39) Remove the strut and spring and
separate. The stirrup and firing pin
should not be removed unless they are broken
and need to replaced. The firing pin is
riveted in place and the pin retaining the
stirrup is peened and difficult to remove.
40) Pivot the trigger to the rear.
Lift out the trigger.
41) Lift out the safety and lever.
42) Separate the safety and lever.
43)
Remove the latch pin and stud.
44) Unscrew the cylinder stop screw.
45) Remove the cylinder stop screw.
46) Pivot the cylinder stop and use a pair
of needle nose to remove the cylinder stop
spring.
47) Remove the spring.
48) Lift out the cylinder stop.
49) Punch out the lanyard swivel pin.
50) Remove the lanyard swivel pin.
51) Remove the lanyard swivel.
Reassembly Instructions
52) Insert the lanyard swivel.
53) Insert the lanyard swivel pin.
54) Tap in the lanyard swivel pin.
55) Insert the cylinder stop.
56)
Insert the cylinder stop pin into the hole
in the bottom of the cylinder stop.
57) Using a small flat blade screw driver
compress the cylinder stop spring and place
the bottom into the groove in the frame. Be
careful as it is easy to make the spring to
go flying across the room and with aging
eyes it is not an easy part to find.
58) Replace the cylinder stop screw.
59) Tighten the cylinder stop screw.
60) Install the latch pin and stud.
61) Figure 61 shows the position the latch
pin and stud should be in.
62) Figure 62 shows how the safety and lever
combine when installed.
63) Install the safety first.
64)
Install the lever and make certain the lever
and safety are combined as shown in figure
64.
65) Figure 65 shows the slot that the nipple
on the back of the trigger rests in.
66) Figure 66 shows the nipple on the back
side of the trigger.
67) Insert the trigger and make certain the
nipple rests in the slot of the lever.
68)
Work the trigger to make sure the lever and
safety move properly.
69) Combine the strut and spring and install
on the hammer.
70) Compress the spring and hold the strut
in place and inset the strut pin.
71)
Tap the strut pin into place.
72) Insert the hammer.
73) Pivot the hammer forward and extend the
stirrup.
74) Slide in the rebound lever.
75) Figure 75 shows the rebound lever
properly installed.
76) Install the rebound lever pin.
77) Push the rebound lever pin into place
using a punch.
78) Install the cylinder hand. The pin on
the back of the hand is inserted into the
hole in the trigger.
79) Compress and install the main spring.
80) With the main spring completely
compressed use a small tool and pivot the
stirrup so it rests in the end of the main
spring.
81) Figure 81 shows the completed
internal assembly with the hammer down.
82) Figure 82 shows the completed
internal assembly with the hammer cocked.
83) Insert the cylinder latch spring into
the side panel.
84) Slide the cylinder latch into place.
85) Figure 85 shows the pin the cylinder
latch rest upon.
86) Figure 86 shows the back side of the
side panel with my finger pointing to the
hole that is created when you slightly
compress the cylinder latch spring by
sliding the cylinder latch to the rear.
87) With the cylinder latch slightly
compressed lay the side panel in place. If
it does not rest flat then do not force it.
You probably have something protruding or
not properly installed inside the frame.
88) Install the forward side plate screw.
89) Tighten the forward side plate screw.
90) Install the rear side plate screw.
91) Tighten the rear side plate screw.
92) Test the hammer and trigger in single
action mode by pulling the hammer to the
rear into the cocked position and then
pulling the trigger letting the hammer fall.
If this test fails you do not have something
installed properly.
93) Test the hammer and trigger in double
action mode by pulling the trigger and the
hammer moves to the rear into the cocked
position and then continue pulling the
trigger causing the hammer to fall. If this
test fails you do not have something
installed properly.
94) Combine the spring onto the
ejector rod.
95) Insert the ejector rod and spring into
the cylinder arbor.
96) Install the crane bushing.
97) Using the large end of the crane bushing
wrench screw the crane bushing into place by
rotating it clockwise.
98) Insert the cylinder arbor into the
cylinder.
99) Figure 99 shows the correctly installed
ejection rod. Please note that it is keyed
and can only be installed one way.
100) Figure 100 shows the rear of the
cylinder. Note where I am pointing to with
the screwdriver. This is a small nipple that
helps align the ratchet when installed
properly. There is also one on the
opposite side.
101) Figure 101 shows one of the two
indentations that fit over the nipples on
the rear of the cylinder.
102) Extend the ejector rod and install the
ratchet onto the threaded end. Start turning
the ratchet clockwise.
103) Using a pair of pliers rotate the
ratchet fully clockwise until it stops.
104) The two indentations in the ratchet
should be aligned with two nipples on the
rear of the cylinder. If not then rotate the
ratchet back until they do.
105) install the ejector rod head and
tighten it down.
106) Slide the crane into the pistol frame.
107) Close the cylinder allowing the latch
to lock.
108) Figure 108 shows how the crane lock and
crane screw align.
109) Install the crane lock and screw
together.
110) Tighten
down the screw.
111) Install
the right grip panel.
112) Install
the left grip panel.
113) Install
the grip panel screw.
114) Tighten
the grip panel screw.
115) Figure
115 shows the completed reassembled 1917
Colt pistol.
