|
1) Probably the most
interesting thing about the Broomhandle is
that there is only ONE screw in the entire
pistol, and that one is the one that holds
the grips on! Having said that, you can
figure that the pistol is much more of a
puzzle than any other mil surp that you will
ever see.
As always, the first
step in the disassembly process of a firearm
is to make sure that it is UNLOADED and
CLEAR of any ammunition. Always clear the
weapon in a safe direction, just in case,
you never know. |
 |
2)
Press the magazine release button.
|
 |
3) Slide the cover
towards the muzzle. |
 |
4)
The base, magazine spring and follower will
pop out.
|
 |
5) The base,
magazine spring and follower removed from
the pistol. |
 |
6) Remove
the spring from the base by sliding it out
of its slot in the base. |
 |
7)
To remove the spring from the follower,
carefully slide it out of the slot. Be
careful not to bend or pull excessively on
the spring.
|
 |
8)
This is the take down latch at the rear of
the pistol.
|
 |
9) Before you flip
the latch up, you need to cock the hammer. |
 |
10)
Once the latch is open, you can draw back
the barrel, barrel extension and internals.
They will just slide right out.
|
 |
11)
Top is the barrel/barrel extension section.
The bottom is the comparatively simple
trigger and magazine group.
|
 |
12)
The internal mechanism is held in place by
“claws”.
|
 |
13) To remove the
internal group from the rest of the barrel
group, simply pull it straight down. |
 |
14) Remove the locking block from the
barrel group by lifting up at the breech end
and then lift it off of its retaining lug.
|
 |
15) The firing pin is retained in the
bolt by a locking mechanism at the rear of
the bolt.
|
 |
16) To release the firing pin, push the
pin in.
|
 |
17) Then
rotate it ¼ of a turn to the clockwise. |
 |
18) The firing pin will “pop” out and
then you can pull it the rest of the way out
of the bolt.
NOTE: Some older models have a firing
pin retainer that used a flat plate. The
plate is dovetailed and can be released by
pushing the firing pin inward to release the
spring pressure on the plate and then slide
the plate upward.
|
 |
19) There is a small spring (retractor
spring) at the end of the firing pin.
|
 |
20) The bolt
retainer is located on the right side and
has its own opening cut in the barrel
extension.
|
 |
21) Push the bolt
retainer forward toward the muzzle
|
 |
22) Figure 22 shows
the bolt retainer released.
|
 |
23) Once the
bolt retainer is released, it can be lifted
out of its opening. |
 |
24) The bolt can now
be removed from the barrel extension.
|
 |
25) The recoil
spring can be removed by pushing it out of
the rear opening of the bolt.
|
 |
26) The extractor is
a thin piece of metal that is very easily
broken if forced or bent too harshly in an
effort to remove it.
|
 |
27) Use a flat tip
and very gently flip and lever the extractor
from its groove. The extractor will slide
out of its slot.
|
 |
28) Figure 28 shows
the flat spring (trigger spring) that
operates the trigger and magazine base
release. The spring has a lip that fits
into a “notch” on the release mechanism.
|
 |
29) Figure
29 shows the small hole in the flat spring
where you will need to insert a sort of hook
to lift and slide the spring out. The
spring will slide out of its slot in the
direction of the grip. |
 |
30) You can see the
spring in figure 30, upside down, with the
lip and hole.
|
 |
31) By simply
tipping the receiver, the trigger and
magazine plunger will drop out.
|
 |
32) To remove the
takedown latch from the internals group,
rotate it downward and lift it out. You
will note from this point on that each piece
is precisely machined to fit together, much
like a working puzzle.
|
 |
33) In figure 33 you
can see the one of the two notches machined
for the safety.
|
 |
34) Depress
the hammer slightly and rotate the safety so
that it is ½ way between the two notches, as
in the bottom view. |
 |
35) Lift the safety
upward and remove it. You may have to pull
slightly back on the hammer to release the
safety.
|
 |
36) Figure 36 shows
the hammer spring.
|
 |
37) In order to
remove the disconnector, you will need to
depress the flat spring at the point
indicated. The disconnector has a rounded
head that comes out of the sear, but it also
has “wings” on its sides that prevent
lateral movement. The action to get it out
is a combination of lifting upwards and
sliding it out from the sear.
|
 |
38) In figure 38 the
disconnector has been removed. You can see
the rounded head and the “wings” on either
side of the part.
|
 |
39) To remove the
sear, you may need to pull the hammer
slightly backward. Then rotate the sear so
that it clears the notches machined in the
internals frame.
|
 |
40) The sear rotates
to 90 degrees and then it will clear the
pivot point.
|
 |
41) Again,
this part has the “wings” machined into it
to keep the part well aligned and tight in
the action. |
 |
42) The next step
requires that the part be placed in a padded
vise. Figure 42 shows the plunger.
|
 |
43) The
plunger in figure 42 will be depressed and
the coupling figure 43 will drop out. |
 |
44) Push in the
mainspring plunger inward.
|
 |
45) Once the
spring has cleared and release the tension
on the coupler, you can lift it out. |
 |
46) The mainspring
can then be removed easily by sliding it out
of the internals frame.
|
 |
47) Lift the hammer
spring out of the internals frame.
|
 |
48) Then the
hammer can be removed. |
 |
49)
The easiest way to get the rear sight off
was to place the pistol in a padded vise.
Use a wooden dowel to push down on the
front of the sight and then pulled straight
back. The key is that you have to clear the
trunnions on the sides of the rear sight.
|
 |
50) Remove the flat
spring by sliding it out.
|
 |
51) You can remove
the adjustment bar by sliding it down the
sight and then off.
|
 |
52) Remove the catch
can be removed by sliding it out one side of
the bar.
|
 |
53) The tiny catch
spring comes out of the hole in the side of
the bar.
This completes the disassembly of the
C96 pistol. |
|
Reassembly
Instructions |
 |
54) Insert the catch
spring into the hole on the side of the
adjustment bar.
|
 |
55) Align the
“wings” on the latch so that it will slide
into the adjustment bar.
|
 |
56) Slide
the wings into the adjustment bar the same
side where the spring is located. |
 |
57) Slide the
adjustment bar onto the rear sight. You
will need to squeeze the adjustment bar to
get it to slide on. Note which way the bar
goes onto the rear sight.
|
 |
58) Slide the flat
spring into its slot on the rear sight.
|
 |
59) Pushing down on
the front part of the rear sight, push
forward on the sight so that the trunnions
get seated into their slots.
|
 |
60)
Figure 60 shows the internals frame, hammer
and hammer spring. |
 |
61)
Place the hammer into the frame and line up
the holes.
|
 |
62)
Insert the hammer spring into the internals
frame locking the hammer into the frame.
|
 |
63)
Next you will need the mainspring and its
associated parts, which are the mainspring
plunger and the coupling plunger.
|
|
Of particular note is the
coupling (top of photo hook looking). It is
EXTREMELY important that the coupling be
inserted the correct direction into the
frame. It CAN be inserted backwards and the
rest of the pistol can be put together and
you won’t notice until you attempt to fire
it and the pistol will not only not
function, but will lock up completely. If
you run into this problem, an article was
found on the
C96 forum that can walk you though how
to fix the problem. |
 |
64)
This is the correct orientation of the
coupling to the frame.
|
 |
65)
Place the internals frame into a padded vise
for the easiest way to insert the main
spring and coupling.
|
 |
66)
Insert the mainspring with its plunger and
the coupling plunger installed. Push the
coupling plunger into the frame using a
punch until you are able to insert and lock
into place the coupling.
|
 |
67)
This is the correct view of the coupling.
If the coupling is not sitting flush, do not
proceed until you have it seated correctly.
|
 |
68) Figure 68 shows
the sear at the top of the photo.
|
 |
69)
Place the sear onto its rotation lug making
sure that it seats flush to the frame.
Again, this part has “wings” that fit into
slots milled into the frame. |
 |
70)
Note that there is a notch cut into the
frame for where the sear seats.
|
 |
71)
Rotate the sear down so that it locks into
place. You may have to pull the hammer a
bit back to allow the sear to clear.
|
 |
72)
The disconnector is inserted such that the
hammer spring bears on it. At the same
time, the rounded head fits into the sear
and the milled wings on the disconnector
slide into the sear as well to negate any
horizontal play.
|
 |
73)
Push the spring upwards and then insert the
disconnector.
|
 |
74)
Note how the spring locks the disconnector
into place.
|
 |
75)
The safety will need to be installed with
the hammer cocked.
|
 |
76)
The safety has a tab on it that mates into a
corresponding notch in the internals frame.
|
 |
77) Figure
77 shows the
corresponding notch in the internals frame. |
 |
78)
Place the safety lever so that is it is
between the two notches on the internal
frame. I found that pulling the hammer
slightly backwards as you push the lever
down into the frame makes it snap right into
place.
|
 |
79)
Turn the safety lever to the top notch
location. (off)
|
 |
80)
The last item placed into the frame is the
take down lever.
|
 |
81)
There are only three parts that go into the
trigger group. Care has to be taken that
the trigger flat spring fits into the
correct notches of the magazine base
release.
|
 |
82)
The magazine place release has a notch cut
into it. The orientation of the notch is
as shown in regards to the frame. Drop it
into place through the frame and make sure
it faces as it is shown above.
|
 |
83) Figure 83
shows the magazine release in place and
oriented correctly.
|
 |
84) Figure
84 shows
the trigger being dropped into place. |
 |
85)
The flat spring is inserted under the tabs
milled into the frame from the butt end of
the pistol. Note where the hole in the
spring is.
|
 |
86)
Using a hooked device, pull the spring into
place, lifting it and locking it into the
notch milled in the magazine plate release.
|
 |
87)
Place the extractor into the bolt.
|
 |
88)
Using a block of wood, you can exert some
downward and outward pressure that lifts
the extractor enough to clear the front of
the bolt and snap it into place. Do this
carefully as the extractor can easily
break.
|
 |
89)
The extractor will seat flush to the bolt.
|
 |
90)
Insert the recoil spring into the bolt body.
|
 |
91)
Slide the bolt into the barrel extension.
|
 |
92)
Using something like a screw driver,
compress the spring in the bolt. The goal
is to compress it enough to insert the bolt
stop (recoil spring abutment). The
orientation of the bolt stop is shown in
figure 92.
|
 |
93)
Figure 93 shows the bolt stop first inserted
and the bottom shows it completely
installed.
|
 |
94)
Note how the bolt stop seats flush up
against the back of the barrel extension. |
 |
95)
The firing pin has the retractor spring
installed on it.
|
 |
96)
Insert the firing pin to the rear of the
bolt. Note the orientation of the notch.
|
 |
97)
Insert a screwdriver, push the firing pin
inwards until you can rotate it ¼ of a turn
counter clockwise.
|
 |
98)
Place the locking block into the barrel
extension.
|
 |
99)
Correctly seated, the locking block will
seat nice and flush.
|
 |
100)
This is perhaps the hardest part of the
assembly. Align the parts so that the hook
of the locking block is forward of the
coupling on the internals frame.
|
 |
101)
Then press together on the forward part of
the internals frame (note where thumb is). |
 |
102)
The barrel extension (with internals) simply
slides back into the lower frame.
|
 |
103)
Make sure that the takedown lever locks into
place and is in the downward position.
|
 |
104)
On the magazine spring, one end is slightly
tapered.
|
 |
105)
Insert the tapered end of the spring into
the follower and slide it forward to lock it
into place.
|
 |
106)
Insert the other end of the spring into the
magazine base and slide it forward to lock
it into place.
|
 |
107)
Insert the follower into the frame so that
the notch (seen at top right) of the
follower fits into the frame.
|
 |
108)
Push down and compress the spring to the
point where you can slide the base into its
locked position.
|
 |
109) You
have completed the reassembly of the C96
pistol. |
| |
