1) With the rifle pointed in a safe direction, open the bolt and make sure the rifle is not loaded.
	2) Pull the bolt all the way to the rear of the receiver.
	3) While depressing the trigger, remove the bolt from the receiver.
	4) Grasp the bolt as shown in figure 4.
	5) Rotate the cocking piece and connecting bar counter-clockwise 1/4 turn.
	6) Figure 6 shows the bolt un-cocked and ready to remove the connecting bar and bolt head.
	7) Pull the bolt head and connecting bar forward.
	8) Remove the bolt head and connecting bar from the bolt body.
	9) While holding the connecting bar, turn the bolt head counter clockwise as far as it will turn.
	10) Slide the bolt head forward.
	11) Remove the bolt head.
Note: The extractor should only be removed from the bolt for two reasons: 1) To replace a broken extractor; or 2) The head space gauges you are using require the extractor to be removed. Under normal operations and cleaning conditions you can easily clean the portion of the extractor near the bolt face. Because the extractor is just wedged into the channel in the bolt head, repeated removal of the extractor will cause it to fit loosely or not at all and eventually you will have to replace both the bolt head and extractor.
	12) Using a steel punch, tap out the extractor.
	13) Figure 13 shows the disassembled extractor and bolt head.
	14) Using a block of wood, press the firing pin against the wood and compress the firing pin spring by pressing down on the bolt body's handle. This action will compress the firing pin spring and allow the cocking piece to be unscrewed and removed.
	15) Unscrew the cocking piece in a counter-clockwise direction.
Note: Once the cocking piece is removed, you need to be very careful to apply constant pressure on the bolt handle (keeping the firing pin compressed) and that the firing pin does not slip. The firing pin is under extreme tension and can cause damage to you or your surroundings if allowed to fly out of the bolt body.
	16) Remove the cocking piece.
	17) Slowly let pressure off of the bolt arm until the firing pin spring is no longer compressed.
	18) Remove the firing pin and firing pin spring from the bolt body.
	19) Remove the firing pin spring from the firing pin.
	20) Figure 20 shows the completely disassembled Mosin-Nagant bolt.
	21) Return the firing pin spring to the firing pin.
	22) Insert the firing pin and spring into the bolt body as shown in figure 22.
	23) Using a block of wood, press the firing pin against the wood and compress the firing pin spring by pressing down on the bolt body's handle. This will expose enough of the rear of the threaded portion of the firing pin to reinstall the cocking piece.
	24) While keeping the firing pin spring compressed replace the cocking piece onto the threaded portion of the rear of the firing pin.
	25) Rotate the cocking piece clockwise until until the rear of the firing pin is flush with the face of the cocking piece.
	26) The slot cut into the rear of the firing pin should align with the slots cut into the cocking piece as shown in figure 26.
	27) Rotate the cocking piece so the bolt resembles figure 27.
	28) Slide the extractor into the rear of the channel in the bolt head.
	29) Tap the extractor back into place.
	30) The rear of the extractor should be flush with the rear of the bolt head.
	31) Figure 31 shows the front of the assembled bolt and extractor.
	32) Figure 32 shows the channel in the bolt head on the left and the small guide lug on the connecting bar on the right.
	33) Align the channel over the guide lug.
	34) The bolt head slides over the barrel of the connecting bar with the guide lug resting in the bolt head's channel.
	35) Rotate the bolt head fully clockwise.
	36) Slide the connecting bar and bolt head over the firing pin. The bolt head has a guide lug that needs to slide into the channel under the bolt handle.
	37) As shown in figure 37 the rear of the connecting bar slides around a guide lug at the rear of the bolt.
	38) Grasp the bolt as shown in figure 38.
	39) Rotate the cocking piece and bolt body clockwise 1/4 turn. This cocks the bolt so it can be returned to the rifle.
	40) To check pin protrusion height rotate the cocking piece and bolt body counter clockwise 1/4 turn.  Note that is figure 40 the firing pin now protrudes from the bolt face.
	41) The tool pictured is used for working on the bolt and as a general purpose screw driver. The two small cut-outs pointed out in figure 41 and labeled as "95" and "75" (on most tools - some are not labeled) are the maximum (95) and minimum (75) heights that the striker should protrude from the bolt face. If you don't have the tool and just want to use a caliper - the measurements are 0.095" maximum and 0.075" minimum pin protrusion.
	42) Push the bolt face back so the firing pin extends as far as possible forward. Then measure pin protrusion as shown in figure 42.
	43) If your firing pin is extended too far beyond the face of the bolt (greater than 0.095"), back the striker off until it passes both the maximum and minimum height test using the tool.  If you do not have the Mosin tool you can purchase one for around $5 at TAPCO.
	44) Once pin protrusion is in specification, grasp the bolt as shown in figure 44.
	45) Rotate the cocking piece and bolt body clockwise 1/4 turn. This cocks the bolt so it can be returned to the rifle. Figure 45 shows the bolt completely assembled, cocked, and ready to be returned to the rifle.
	46) Insert the bolt into the receiver.
	47) Close the bolt.