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Article Published Date: 12/25/2007

 

Article by Mark Trope
 

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Part I - The Guns

The term “nationalism” is generally used to describe two phenomena: (1) the attitude that the members of a nation have when they care about their national identity and (2) the actions that the members of a nation take when seeking to achieve (or sustain) self-determination.

Nationalism is a very healthy thing. It helps a people define themselves, and have a sense of identifiable pride. Traditions, customs and culture are part of nationalism.  Such values are handed down from generation to generation within a nation. 

Nations that pride themselves in the shooting sports have always sought to continually develop and improve arms that are truly their own! Such rifles and handguns very often start out from the humble beginnings of being a military arm. 

Consider the amount of truly accurate guns built up in the US on 03 Springfield actions after WWI. Or, the plethora of finely tuned match pistols built up on 1911 platforms. What about the very accurate, autoloading rifles built around the M1, M14 (M1A) or the M16 (AR15 and clones).

In Germany, Mauser was always building special, long-range match rifles around the basic Model 98 action. Yes, the actions may have   be longer, shorter or heavier. The rear sights may be windage adjustable. But, the basic 98 design was proudly there!

In the UK, the Enfield was brought to an accuracy level never before realized! Caliber changes were in order, usually to 7.62 NATO. Models such as L39A1, Enfield Envoy, etc come to mind. 

The Swedish Mausers were fitted with finely adjustable aperature sights and target stocks.  Even with a lock time considered absurdly slow by modern standards, they are still a rifle to be reconed with!

Bringing readily recognizable arms from the field of battle to the field of competition is a source of national pride. Individual gunsmiths may have build up target arms on military platforms, But, often, large factories were involved in the production of very accurate rifles and handguns based on military designs, but the arms themselves were from new production actions that shared basic features of their military cousins, but were held to the highest standard and tolerances. Such arms were (and are) built to deliver the finest accuracy. 

So it was that I found myself at  a gun show; and the pickins’ were pretty slim.  Usually, the fellows that know each other are running around, and  looking for each other;  saying things like:  “Hey, come here, you’ve got to see this gun!” Or: “I need you to to check this one out.”  Prehaps: “ Weren’t you looking for a 6.5 Jap?  There’s one on a table in the back.”  And, the ever popular: “There’s a guy walking around wearing a gray coat & a cowboy hat, he’s got  the CLEANEST 03/A3 I’ve ever seen!”

As I said, the pickins’ were pretty slim at this show.  Most of the guys were looking at their watches, or discussing where to go for lunch.  However, there was one interesting rifle there, and we all had seen it.  The price on the tag hanging from the trigger guard put the rest of the fellows off though.                                                                                    

I went back to that dealers table 3 times.  Other then a missing butt plate, the rifle was complete.  Eventually, I got the rifle for way less then half  the price that was on the the price tag.   What was this wonder of steel and walnut that now resides with me?  A Swiss Hämmerli 300 Meter  Free rifle, that’s what (Note.1)!

Hämmerli is a name respected as one that produces some of the most accurate guns in the world.  Hämmerli guns, made in Switzerland are, without exception, very specialized target and match shooting tools.  Hämmerli arms are often used in Olympic competition events.  Needless to say, don’t expect to see one in the sporting goods department of your local mart-mart store!

From about 1945 to 1959, Hämmerli built a single shot, match target, 300 Meter Free Rifle based on the straight-pull action design of the Swiss K-31.  This was no simple re-work of cast-off or left over Mil-Surp guns though.  The Hämmerli 300 Meter Free Rifle was a built from the ground up shooting machine.  It was engineered to the deliver the finest possible accuracy.  Hammerli produced Olympic rifles in 1950 that were used at the next four Olympics to win gold medals! 

The most common caliber of the Hämmerli 300 Meter Free Rifle was 30/06, followed by 300 Winchester magnum.  However, it’s reported that runs of other calibers were made.  Of course the 7.5 Swiss caliber was accounted for, plus the 7X57 Mauser. Toward the end of the run, Hämmerli chambered a number of guns in .308 Winchester (Note.2). 

Figure 1

The Hämmerli is chambered in .308 Winchester, an excellent cartridge!

It made sense for Hämmerli to chamber the 300 Meter Free Rifle in .308 Winchester.                                                                                                                                        

The US Military had adopted the T-65 cartridge, which in turn was adopted by NATO as the 7.62 NATO, and finally, the civilian version appeared as the .308 Winchester.  The .308 Winchester was (and still is) a hands-down sweet round.  More accurate then the 30/06, in a shorter package, with less recoil, the potent .308 sacrificed scant little velocity to its older brother.    

Yes, my Hämmerli 300 Meter Free Rifle is chambered in .308 Winchester.   Not only that, but it has double-set triggers.  The standard set up called for a single trigger.  Available at extra cost; was the desirable double-set trigger arrangement.  

Double-set triggers are a work of art really.  Held to the tightest tolerances; and fabricated from the finest steels, they allow the shooter the luxury of a pull weight amounting to mere ounces!   Let’s look at how it works.

Figure 2

Figure 2 shows the lever that ‘sets’ the trigger mechanism.

 

Figure 3

This is the trigger, it’s adjusted to a couple of ounces.

 

Figure 4

Weight-of-pull adjustment screw, there’s a hole in the trigger guard to insert a slender flat-tip screwdriver.

The rear ‘trigger’ isn’t a really a trigger at all.   What it amounts is a lever; that when pulled to the rear, sets up (hence the term set-trigger) the internal mechanism so the front trigger, when pressed, can release the sear with scant little pressure.   As you can see from the picture, a screw between the triggers adjusts weight-of- pull.

In use, once the round is chambered, the rear lever is pulled to set the mechanism.  The instant the metallic sights, or scope X hair settles on target; the front trigger need only be caressed with the lightest possible touch, and the round is gone!  I learned very quickly, if you have the sights set where they are supposed to be when the front trigger is touched, that is exactly where that round is going.   There’s simply no time to wander from the point of aim with this trigger system.  When a shooter is trying to press a somewhat heavy trigger, and keep the sights aligned with a target that’s when the wandering can, and surely does happen!  

Figure 5

For those who prefer the pistol grip hold, the thumb hole.

 

Figure 6

For those who prefer a more traditional hold, the thumb rest.

The Hämmerli is no lightweight!  It comes in at 17 ½ lbs.  The stock is a massive piece of straight-grained walnut.   It has both a thumbhole and a thumb rest.  It has a wide cheek piece and a beavertail forend.  The only thing missing from the rifle was its original hook-type, bronze butt plate.  That would have been a massive piece of metal that went under a shooters armpit. As there is little chance of finding a 50-year-old Hämmerli hooked butt plate in West Texas, I replaced it with a Morgan adjustable padded butt pad.

Figure 7

Morgan fully adjustable buttpad.

 

Figure 8

Morgan fully adjustable buttpad, side view.

I ordered the Morgan with a curved pad.  Since the Morgan is a two-piece set up, with separate base and pad, the shooter can adjust the butt pad both horizontally and vertically.    Morgan produces their units with both curved, and straight pads.  Since the pads are available separately as well, one could also simply buy a straight Morgan pad to use with the already installed base. 

http://www.midwayusa.com

Figure 9

The palm rest slides in the accessory rail.  It can be slid to any position and locked in place, or it can be removed.

 

Figure 10

The backside of the palm rest.

 

Figure 11

Parker Hale PH25C aperture rear sight.

 

Figure 12

Thumbscrew at left is loosened to slid rear sight; and adjust eye relief, or simply slide sight right off the rifle!

 

Figure 13

Rear sighting disk, it’s large, with a small sight hole.

 

Figure 14

The male dovetail the rear sight slides onto, the sight can be locked in any position.

A full-length accessory rail is under the forend.  The palm rest is also walnut, and of the finger-grip type that was popular in the 1950’s.   The Hämmerli’s sights are pure classic; let’s look at them.   The rear sight is a Parker Hale (PH) PH25C.  The sight attaches with a male dovetail as part of the action, and a female dovetail as part of the sight base.  The nice thing about that set up is, the rear sight can simply be slid back and forth to get it exactly where the shooter wants it in relation to the eye before tightening the thumb screw to lock the sight in place.  I’m not sure if this is the original rear sight, but the double dovetails, and the fact that the PH25C is from that era, would seem to indicate that if it is not the original rear sight, it was surely designed with such a match rifle in mind.

Figure 15

Tompkins front sight, it has interchangeable inserts, attached to base with a thumbscrew.

The front sight that came with my Hämmerli is definitely not original.  While it has a globe-type front sight with interchangeable inserts, it is not the one that Hämmerli put on at the factory.  The front sight on my rifle is a Tompkins’s with a bubble level.   This is a popular front sight for high-power shooting.  The good thing is; the Hämmerli front sight base mounted on the rifles barrel is of a standard size. All regular, globe- type front sights will fit.    Let’s compare a few pictures of the Hämmerli and a K-31.

Figure 16

Hämmerli has short tang, and a knob on end of bolt.  K-31 has long tang, and a pull-ring.  Bolt handle of Hämmerli is larger and sculpted.

 

Figure 17

Hämmerli barrel is longer, and much thicker.

 

Figure 18

Note the 6 carbon tracks at the muzzle of the Hämmerli, and how heavy the stock is.

 

Figure 19

The actions are similar, but not the same.  Hämmerli is a single shot, has a solid bottom.

 

Figure 20

Hämmerli has a thick cheekpiece, high comb.

 

Figure 21

Another view of the thick cheekpiece, high comb.

 

Figure 22

Another view of the thick cheekpiece, high comb.

I was anxious to see how the Hämmerli would shoot, but first there were a few chores to be accomplished.  That means it’s time for a bit of T.L.C. That stands for Tightening, Lubricating and Cleaning (not in that order).        

It’s amazing the amount guns, even new ones right out-of-the-box; that have loose action retaining screws.  I mean very loose!  Before shooting a gun, break out the gunsmith screwdriver set, and make sure the screws are tight.  The Hämmerli’s screws were tight to begin with; all I had to do was check them.  Since the triggers worked perfectly, I saw no reason to completely disassemble the rifle for the next step, cleaning.    

 

Barrel cleaning cannot be stressed enough.  9 times out of 10, a used gun has a cruddy barrel!  True accuracy cannot be determined if layer upon layer of old powder and jacket fouling is present. Cleaning consisted of pushing a patch soaked in powder solvent through the barrel and letting the solvent sit for a bit. Then another patch soaked in powder solvent was pushed through the barrel.  This removes most of the powder fouling.  Next, a bit of brushing, and a dry patch went through the barrel.  Now, some strong copper remover was put on a patch and pushed through the barrel.  This stuff, no matter what the brand, smells strongly of ammonia.  Ammonia is the ingredient that dissolves old jacket material adhering to the barrel interior.  Don’t let it sit more then 10 or 15 minutes.  If you want to brush the barrel with this stuff inside, do it with a nylon brush.  Ammonia will break down brass or bronze brush bristles!   Then, I pushed a couple of dry patches through the barrel.  Next I pushed a couple of patches wet with the standard powder solvent again, and let it sit for a few minutes.  Lastly, I pointed the muzzle down, and sprayed some “disk brake spray cleaner” down the barrel, and then a couple of dry patches after the spray cleaner stopped running out.  This cleaning procedure leaves a barrel free from all containments, and is now bone dry (Note.3).  The action recesses now need attention.

 

The recesses of a rifle action usually have lots of old, dirty oil & crud in them.  I used the tool below to clean the action and chamber.  I sprayed disk brake spray cleaner on the special cleaning swab once it was inserted into the handle. This handy tool got all the crud out of the action recesses.

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/

Figure 23

Tipton Action and Chamber Cleaning Tool Set.

I used disk brake spray cleaner to clean the bolt.  Then I gave it a light coat of oil.  The T.L.C. was now accomplished.  As I planned to shoot the rifle with both the metallic sights and a scope, it was time to think about mounting a scope on the Hämmerli

Figure 24

Barrel-mounted scope block, there are two of them.

Luckily, the Hämmerli was fitted with barrel-mounted scope blocks.  Those blocks are for mounting the old, long, target-style scopes.   I don’t happen to have a Lyman Target Spot, Unertal or a Redfield 3200 scope.  But, it was easy for me to build an Mk IV, clamp-on scope base/mount to attach a short, modern, 36-power target scope.  See this article for instructions on building this item.

 

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/hr12scopemount/index.asp

Figure 25

Add a 6-48 screw, and an Mk III scope base becomes an Mk IV scope base.

 

Figure 26

The 6-48 screw of the Mk IV scope base situated behind the front scope block is a positive recoil stop.

Since the item in the article was made for a rimfire rifle, the claws alone provide enough clamping force.  A centerfire rifle has enough recoil that a positive recoil stop is required.   By the addition of a simple 6-48 screw, which will bear against the back of the front block, the clamp-on scope base/mount will now work on any centerfire rifle.  I call this version of the clamp-on scope base/mount the Mk IV

Figure 27

Burris Signature Zee rings.

After constructing the Mk IV clamp-on scope base/mount, I grabbed a set of Burris Signature Zee rings and a Japanese- produced Tasco 36-power target scope I had in my parts stash. (Note.4).  Both were fitted to the new Mk IV clamp-on scope base/mount.

Figure 28

The Mk IV scope base and 36 X Japanese produced Tasco target scope.

 

Figure 29

The Mk IV scope base just clears the action.

 

Figure 30

The scope bell and sun shield just clears the Mk IV scope base.

Well, here we are.  We have one very cool Swiss rifle, one that is directly linked to an outstanding Swiss Mil-Surp rifle.  The TLC has been done.  A serviceable (if not original) butt pad has been installed.  The new, Mk IV clamp-on scope base/mount has been built, and fitted with rings and a scope.  Is it time to head to the range?  No, we need some ammo!    However, we are out of time for this month.  In the next installment, we will head to the loading bench and craft some tailor made ammo befitting such a fine rifle.  Then my friends; it’s off to the range!

 

Note 1

I have it on good authority; from a fellow shooter that speaks fluent German and whose wife is from Switzerland, that Hämmerli is pronounced: Him-er-lee.
 

Note 2

The rules for center fire 300 Meter Free Rifles call for a caliber of no more then 8 mm.

It’s easy to see why the lion share of these rifles were chambered in a .30 caliber cartridge. The Swiss service cartridge was .30 caliber, and a .30 caliber would court the U.S. market well.
 

Note 3

If you live in a damp climate, or plan on not shooting your gun soon, then a light coat of oil inside the barrel will be needed. If you do oil the barrel, the oil must be removed before shooting it.
 

Note 4

Tasco no longer imports this good quality Japanese- produced scope. In fact, the name “Tasco” was sold some years back. The original owners of Tasco imported my scope.

The new owners of Tasco have their products produced in China. I’ve heard less then glowing reports of the Chinese-produced scopes.
 

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