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Article Published
Date: 01/28/2008 |
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| Article by R. Ted Jeo |
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Downloadable Version of Article |
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Never has there been a rifle/weapon system that the
average “Joe blow” can build/convert/deck out with the
ease and abundance of parts as the AR rifle. In this
and future articles, we’ll be looking at just a FEW of
items that I thought were neat enough to write about.
Now, mind you, there are hundreds if not thousands of
parts and add-ons for the AR in its multitude of
configurations and I am only going to look at a few of
them. I really do not want to turn into an AR writer
for the rest of my life because with the quantity of
aftermarket parts that are available this could be
easily done… (But seriously, if you find something TRULY
unique…..please let us know.)
I’ve been talking with several of my shooting buddies
both in person and on line and it just seems that the AR
bug has bitten all of them in one form or another. One
friend ended up trading some computer work for a match
grade Bushmaster AR full size rifle. Another was
talking about how he was building up “yet another” AR
rifle, this one decked out as the 1970’s issued style
M16. Add in the recent article by Jamie on his AR
sniper set up and a friend showing me an original COLT
AR rifle (sans forward assist), AR rifles abound
everywhere. This pretty much is a no brainer. Open up
Shotgun News, I counted no fewer than 25 big ads,
a lot of them full page ads, featuring AR rifles, parts
or accessories. The AR has become the “Barbie Doll”
dress ‘em up toy of the firearm world. Alternatively,
if you are in the right age group, the saying, “Pimp my
AR” may come to mind. I’m going to add my 2 cents of
opinions on some items that I’ve found and like for my
AR.
For a time now I’ve been thinking of adding some
Picatinny rails to my M4 (Clone-4). Something to mount
accessories to like lights, grips, coffee makers,
sandwich grills, and lasers to. The issue was that I
didn’t really want to switch out the fore grips with the
Picatinny rails on all sides, like the SIRS (Stock
Imbedded Rail System) grips. Instead I was thinking of
just a simple one rail system on the bottom. Personal
preference and cost reasons. |
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Picatinny….who….what….where? |
The name Picatinny, refers to the U.S. Army
arsenal located in northern New Jersey. It is
the headquarters of the U.S. Army Armament
Research, Development and Engineering Center.
The arsenal first started out as the Dover
Powder Depot only to have it changed to
Picatinny Powder Depot a mere 4 days later on
September 10, 1880. The name was changed once
more in 1907 to Picatinny Arsenal. Picatinny
made gunpowder and munitions throughout its
history and is now the facility that develops
new technologies in weapons, monition and armor
systems for the U.S. Armed Forces. HOWEVER….
Picatinny did not develop the rail system that
carries its name…per se.
The Picatinny rail system has its original roots
back in the Weaver mount. There are two names of
individuals that were instrumental in the
subsequent development and evolution of the
Picatinny rail system. [as much as I searched, I
could find no definitive answer as to who or
where the rail was designed. I did, however,
come up with a few tidbits of info]
The first is Earl Reddick (of Reddick Arms
Development). He developed the tighter specs for
a Weaver-styled mount that included cross slots
at precise locations and specifications.
Basically, the difference between the Picatinny
rail and the Weaver rail is the size of the
cross slots on the mount. Weaver rails have a
slot width of 0.180”, the Picatinny has slot
widths of 0.206”. Weaver devices will fit on
Picatinny rails, but Picatinny device may not
always fit on Weaver rails. [I also read that
Reddick was the first to develop the .50 BMG
sniper rifle. I could find little more than that
on the internet]. There is more info on the
second name, Dick Swan of Atlantic Research
Marketing Systems (ARMS). Swan (with ARMS) was
influential in the realization and development
of a standardized mounting system.
“In 1983, A.R.M.S. had developed a dovetail rail
similar to the commercial Weaver style, but with
significant variations to what was available on
the commercial market. Some of those variations
included, standardizing on a dovetail dimension
for its product line, rectangular cross notches
vs. the Weaver half round notch, a 3/8” wide
channel thru the center top of each dovetail
rail, and when practical, the notched channel
was set at a STANAG length with holes placed at
either end to facilitate the mounting of STANAG
optical devices. In 1983, A.R.M.S. also
developed a self-locking thumbnut design, that
was used in the carrying handle optic rail
mount. That self-locking feature is currently
used to secure the M16 carrying handle to the
flat top receiver.
”(“Sermon on
the mount”, Mr. Dick E. Swan, Atlantic Research
Marketing Systems, Inc. (A.R.M.S.), Joint
Services Small Arms Systems Annual Symposium,
Exhibition and Firing Demonstration,
Albuquerque, New Mexico, 15-18 May 2006,
http://www.dtic.mil/ndia/2006smallarms/swan.pdf)
Basically, ARMS worked with Picatinny’s
Future Weapons Branch and Colt in the 1980’s and
transitioned the M16A1/A2 style handle mounted
system to a rail system. ARMS went on to develop
the SIRS (Stock Integrated Rail System) that you
hear a lot about now a days. [I suspect that the
reason we call it the Picatinny rail is because
of these cooperative efforts.]
What’s this about STANAG? It refers to the
NATO abbreviation for STANDardization AGreement,
which covers all sorts of technical and non
technical specifications for NATO member
countries. Countries agree to the specs and
utilize them in their military. These may cover
the Display Symbology and Colors for NATO
Maritime Units (STANAG 4420) to computer issues
like storage interfaces (STANAG 4575) and
everything inbetween. STANAG 2324 was the
adoption of the US MIL STD 1913 “Picatinny Rail”
for NATO.
So, there maybe some some sort of cross over
of history between the two names associated with
the Picatinny/MIL-STD-1913/STANAG 2324 mounting
system. Oh, and by the way, the 1913, Weaver and
STANAG 2324 rails are not EXACTLY the same in
dimensions. |
| Sources:
http://www.Wikipedia.org
http://www.pica.army.mil/PicatinnyPublic/about/history.asp
various forums and discussion forums |
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ERGO Tactical Accessories, part of Falcon Industries
Inc., provided me with their aluminum bolt-on “universal
mounting platform” (UMP) rails to do this job. ERGO’s
UMP rails are Picatinny/1913 standard configuration and
come in polymer as well. ERGO provided me with 2, 4 and
6 inch rails, but they also make 6 and 12 inch blanks
(i.e., no slots cut into them) for those of you with
“ideas” they want to work on. The UMP standard rails
come with hardware to mount the rails as well as covers
to protect them. |
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Figure 1 |
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ERGO offers the UMP rails in three sizes and
they come with low profile rail covers.
Mounted 6”, 4” and 2” sizes. There are also
instructions included to mount the rails to
round free float style AR hand guards as
well as those found of the FAL series of
rifles as well. |
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Figure 2 |
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Each rail comes with mounting hardware and
instructions |
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Unlike other rail system options out there, ERGO’s rails
mount onto and through standard AR “plastic” hand guard
grips. The rails include the bolts and nuts that go
through the AR’s hand guard vent holes. It is a simple
matter of removing the front hand guards, threading in
the nuts and bolts, and then reinstall the hand guards.
You do not need to remove the rifle’s delta ring nor do
you need to fiddle with front sight and barrel removal
as seen in some of the more elaborate rail systems out
there. I offer this type of rail installation as ONE
option that is out there.
AS ALWAYS, MAKE SURE YOU START WITH AN UNLOADED WEAPON
To mount the rail, you need to remove the hand guards.
That is accomplished by pushing down on the delta ring,
releasing the spring tension on the hand guards so that
you can pop them off. |
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Figure 3 |
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The one obstacle, if you would, is the delta
ring on the rifle. Under spring pressure,
you need a four armed gorilla to take off
the hand guards. |
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Figure 4 |
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The answer is to use a hand guard removal
tool. |
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Hand guard removal tools are, I think, a somewhat “new”
device that has come on the market in recent years. I
do not recall seeing them when I built my first AR back
in 19XX…sure would have save a lot of skinned finger
tips. Anyway, you can pick up one of these nifty
devices from any number of suppliers, including
MidwayUSA,
Brownells, or
DPMS.
Prices range from $10 on up. The one I have is from
DPMS. To use these devices, insert the hook into the
magazine well. The arms of the device will go one
either side of the delta ring. Gently squeeze and push
down at the same time, this will release the spring on
the hand guards enough that you can pull off them off
(one at a time). |
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Figure 5 |
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Here, the delta spring is compressed and
I’ve lifted off the back end of the top hand
guard. The order of removal is always back
first, and then the top of the guard. |
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Figure 6 |
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After you get the top guard off, remove the
bottom. Note the barrel nut has the teeth
on it. Those get in the way when you put
the guards back on. They have to line up
with the groove in the guards. |
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Once you have the hand guards off, take a look at the
heat shields inside. Standard rifle length guards and
some carbine short guards have single aluminum heat
shields. There are also guards that have dual heat
shields. You will have to determine which you have. If
you have a dual heat shield, you will need to remove the
top shield to install the nuts and bolts to the rail.
The rail should just pop out from it side holders. You
may need to use a thin screwdriver. |
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Figure 7 |
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My rifle has single heat shields inside, so
I did not have to remove anything. |
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Figure 8 |
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On the bottom guard, place the rail so that
it is inline with the center line of the
hand guard. |
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I installed the full length 6” carbine rail onto my
rifle. If you went with one of the shorter rails, you
would have to decide the position of the rail in
advance. Obviously, it will depend on what accessory
you want to mount to the rail which will determine where
the rail should be mounted. More on this later. |
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Figure 9 |
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Insert the supplied bolts through the holes
that line up on the rail and hand guard and
install one of the supplied nuts. A droplet
of Locktite on the bolt may be a good idea
at this point. |
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This was one spot where I had a bit of difficulty. At
first, it seemed that the supplied bolts were too short
and I could not get the nut to thread onto it. What I
needed to do was push down a bit on the aluminum shield
(it is quite soft) and then the nut would fit. |
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Figure 10 |
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Tighten up each of the three nuts using a
5/32 hex head driver. |
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Figure 11 |
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Sometimes the rails on the Picatinny system
need to be protected, either from being
dinged up or from drawing blood from you
body (they do have sharp edges to them).
All of the ERGO rails come with the low
profile covers (top). You can get more
robust covers in different colors as well
from them (bottom). Both can be cut to fit
whatever combination of covered area that
you need. |
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Re install the hand guards to the rifle using the hand
guard removal tool. Again, you would insert the hook
into the magazine well and then squeeze and push down to
compress the delta ring spring. The thing to note when
installing the hand guards is to make sure that the
teeth of the barrel nut match up with the notch in your
hand guards. Always place the front of the hand guard
into place and then work on the back of the hand guard.
And then presto..you have a Picatinny rail mounted to
your rifle’s handguards. Hmmm..now what to put on it? |
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ERGO Vertical Forward Grip (VFG) |
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As I mentioned before, there are literally hundreds of
optional devices that could be mounted to the Picatinny
rail system. Lights, lasers, and grips, just to mention
a few. In this particular case, the ERGO hand guard
mounted rail may be best suited for the mounting of an
addition Vertical Forward Grips (VFGs) or tactical
light. Perhaps the VFG can be traced back to the
Thompson sub machinegun, today the VFG is coming back
into being a common item installed on our carbines.
That being said, there may be some issue with mounting a
laser SIGHTING device to this rail, because the rail is
not on AS stable a platform as, say, a free float rail
hand guard system, one mounted directly to the or
replacing the barrel nut. (This may be a future
article…).
ERGO offers a variety of different VFG’s to mount to
their (or any other) Picatinny rails. They have:
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Erogrip VFG- both clamp on and express mount grip
styled after a traditional AR pistol grip
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Pop bottle VFG- a “traditional” straight clamp on
grip
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Overmoulded VFG- styled as the pop bottle but with a
rubber over grip for better grip surface
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Aluminum VFG- tough, heavier and textured on the
surface.
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HD Husky VFG- overmoulded Santoprene rubber grip
with glass filled nylon core
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Broomhandle VFG- overmoulded with rubber, with a
steel base. Shaped like a broomhandle….
Several of the grips come with storage compartments in
them. Several of them come with the quick release
feature. The main advantages to the quick (or express)
release are that you can remove the device quickly,
easily and without having to remove other devices if you
need to “slide” the device off the rail. They also
release with a flick of your thumb, very handy if you
need to adjust the location on the rail.
My selection was to go with the quick release
Broomhandle. My feeling was that I liked the feel of
the C96 “Broomhandle” Mauser..why not? That is not to
say that ERGO’s grip is styled on the C96 grip! This
ERGO grip comes with the express and in a variety of
colors. Matter of fact, nearly all their grips (and
most other accessory items they sell) come in several
colors. The Broomhandle grip has a threaded and
tethered cap that hides a storage area in the grip. A
good place to hide a front sight tool, case extractor,
batteries for your electronic sights, or most anything
else that is about ½ wide and 3” or so long. I found
the tether to be “taxing” to take on or off, but the
secret seemed to be tighten or loosen the base while
holding the tether in one place. |
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Figure 12 |
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The Broomhandle grip has a storage
compartment in the base, with a threaded and
tethered cap. The compartment comes with a
foam plug to dampen sounds from smaller
items. |
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As with most Picatinny accessories, all you do is line
up the cross screw in the device with a notch on the
rail and mount the device. In the express release
device that this ERGO device uses, it’s even easier,
line up the notch and flip a lever. |
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Figure 13 |
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A flick of your thumb and the VFG is mounted
and locked in place. Another flick and you
can remove or move it with little effort.
You can make it right or left handed, front
or back activated. Very handy. |
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Figure 14 |
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The lever is on the left of each photo. If
you need to adjust the mount for tightness,
all you do is push in on the lever and the
nut on the other end pops out of its
retaining hole. Tighten the nut a couple of
turns and test the throw of the lever. Do
this until you get the desired tightness of
the throw lever.
(Figure 14, not pushing in on the lever,
Figure 15 pushing in. You can see the nut
on the far right) |
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Figure 15 |
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The lever is on the left of each photo. If
you need to adjust the mount for tightness,
all you do is push in on the lever and the
nut on the other end pops out of its
retaining hole. Tighten the nut a couple of
turns and test the throw of the lever. Do
this until you get the desired tightness of
the throw lever.
(Figure 14, not pushing in on the lever,
Figure 15 pushing in. You can see the nut
on the far right) |
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So, my M4 looks really good now (someone I know would
even say it was “sexy”…). |
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Figure 16 |
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Here’s the finished deal. Just as an aside,
if you look closely, the standard hand
guards of an AR have a very slight taper to
them, from receiver to barrel. If, for some
reason, you want to make the UMP rail be
truly parallel to the barrel, ERGO does make
a tapered UMP angled adapter (like a wedge)
that does the job. |
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But, what does this give you other than ogling looks at
the range? To find out, I handed the rifle to none
other than….my wife? Her very first expression was,
“Hmm…this is easy to carry.” Yup, with the VFG
installed, the rifle does seem more ERGOnomically (ha
ha) tailored. It comes faster to the shoulder, easier
and faster to line up your sights on your target as
well. But, as the saying goes, the proof is in the
pudding. Mind you, I am not, have not nor will be (most
likely) a 1) battlefield solider, 2) police officer, or
3) SWAT operator. So to be fair, I asked a friend of
mine to “evaluate” the VFG. He’s a two tour Iraq
veteran, so he’s been there, done that. We ran it out
to the range, and he did some of the reactive firing
training drills. You know, the type, carry the weapon
muzzle down across the chest, quickly bring it up at the
same time throwing the safety, two shots, bring it back
down putting it back on safe, etc. He liked it and
said it would work. Right now, I am going to state that
JUST because he liked it and thought it was reasonable,
his thoughts DO NOT constitute an endorsement of ANY
kind by his employer…the U.S. Army. It DOES feel good.
The VFG has a more natural feel to the supporting hand
than gripping the front hand guards as normal. And, of
course, it really looks good….
BUT…what if you do not want to install the rails to your
weapon BUT still want a VFG? Hmmmm…the folks at ERGO
have an option for that. It’s called the Hand Guard
Mounted VFG. |
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Figure 17 |
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The hand guard mounted VFG comes with
instructions and mounting hardware. |
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Figure 18 |
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Same grip style, different mounting device.
Right shows the express release broomhandle
VFG mentioned earlier, left is the hand
guard mounted VFG. |
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Mounting the hand guard VFG still requires the removal
of the hand guards, which I mentioned above. The
attachment of the base is accomplished a similar way
with two bolts going through the hand guard at vent hole
sites. |
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Figure 19 |
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First you will need to remove the handle
from its steel base. Use a 5/32 hex driver
and loosen/remove the screw that is deep
inside the handle. |
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Figure 20 |
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This is the steel base of the VFG. The
bolts will line up with vent holes. The
center hole (threaded) goes to the grip
screw. |
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Figure 21 |
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Line up the base where you like it on the
hand guard. This may take some guesswork at
first. I found that having the grip further
back (toward the shooter) was more
comfortable and easier to use. |
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Figure 22 |
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Line up the base with the slot in your hand
guard making sure it is straight. |
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Figure 23 |
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Push the two bolts through the vent holes…. |
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Figure 24 |
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And thread on the flat nuts. Again, a
droplet of Locktite on the bolt would be a
good idea. Note the parallel alignment of
the nuts. Remember, if you have the dual
shields on your hand guards, you will need
to remove the top shield, install the nuts,
and then replace that shield. |
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Figure 25 |
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Finally, use your hex driver to re install
the grip and tighten it down. |
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Figure 26 |
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You could remove the grip using the hex
driver and leave the base in place if you
really wanted to. Ideally, though, this is
a more “permanent” install for a VFG. It
handles comparably to the rail mounted VFG I
mentioned above. |
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Figure 27 |
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The hand guard mounted VFG rides a tad
closer to the hand guards, basically the
difference is the thickness of the UMP
Rail. It is just as stable in use. |
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So there you have it. My first installment of “pimping”
my AR. I’ve found that the ERGO products to be quality
manufactured US made parts. By the way, these parts are
so called “922R Compliant” parts. That’s the ATF regs
requiring a certain number of USA made parts to be on a
“kit”. Of course, for the AR (USA made to begin with),
this does not come into play.
For ordering info visit Tennessee Gun Parts at:
http://www.tngunparts.com/ or call: TOLL FREE
1-(866)-472-4986. |
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Adobe PDF
Downloadable Version of Article |
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